Compendium of the most significant studies with reference to properties, intake, effects.

Kirilov, P., Franceschi-Messant, S., Lukyanova, L., Perez, E., & Rico-Lattes, I. Colloidal nanoparticles of gelled oil–elaboration process and characterization.

Abstract. The aim of this study was to elaborate a stable dispersion of organogel nanoparticles in water. Organogels are soft materials, which result from the immobilization of an organic liquid in a three-dimensional network by a gelator. The organogels in this study were obtained from an organic oil and a low molecular-mass organic gelator (LMOG). These organic gelators have several advantages over polymer gelators because of their greater flexibility of use and their gelling capacity even in very small quantities. LMOG based organogels are usually prepared by dissolving the gelator in an oil at high temperature and then cooling the solution below its characteristic sol-gel transition temperature (Tgel). Tgel is empirically defined as the temperature below which flow is not discernible. It depends on the concentration of the gelator, the properties of the oil (polarity, viscosity, etc.) and, in some cases, the conditions of cooling. ...

Guglielmini, G. (2008). Nanostructured novel carrier for topical application. Clinics in dermatology, 26(4), 341-346.

Abstract. Nanoemulsions have attracted considerable attention in recent years for application in personal care products as potential vehicles for the controlled delivery of cosmetics and the optimized dispersion of active ingredients in particular skin layers. Of the many techniques that have been developed to measure droplet size of emulsions, 2 are of interest: laser light scattering and energy-filtering transmission electron microscopy used to measure the size of droplets in a nanoemulsion formed by a novel emulsifying agent that is able to spontaneously create emulsions with droplet sizes smaller than 300 nm.

Hill, K. (2007). Industrial development and application of biobased oleochemicals. Pure and Applied Chemistry, 79(11), 1999-2011.

Abstract: In concepts for new products, performance, product safety, and product economycriteria are equally important. They are taken into account already when the raw materialsbase for a new industrial product development is defined. Here, renewable resources gain—again after the earlier “green trend” in the 1980s—increasing attention as an alternative rawmaterials source compared to fossil feedstock. The industrial use of carbohydrates, proteins,and vegetable oils aligns perfectly with the principles of Responsible Care and is an impor-tant part of green chemistry and sustainability in general.Since the 1950s, oleochemistry has grown to a major research and technology area inseveral institutions and industries. A large variety of products based on fats and oils havebeen developed since then for different uses, such as specialties for polymer applications,biodegradable mineral oil replacements for lubricants, and surfactants and emulsifiers for thehome and personal-care industries. However, at present it seems that the use of renewable re-sources, especially vegetable oils, has to compete more and more with the increasing demandfor bioenergy, which could cause an unbalanced supply and demand in the future or even athreat for the increasing demand for food in certain areas of the world.

Ghalleb, S., De Vaugelade, S., Sella, O., Lavarde, M., Mielcarek, C., Pense‐Lheritier, A. M., & Pirnay, S. (2015). Predictive microbiology for cosmetics based on physicals, chemicals and concentration parameters. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 37(1), 70-75.

Abstract. Challenge test (CT) is essential to assure the efficiency of the preservative system in products. A previous study realized by our staff in 2012, carried out to evaluate the influence of three parameters (ethanol, pH and water) on the microbiological cosmetics products conservation. Following this work, a correlation between aw (based on the glycerine concentration) and the selected parameter has been demonstrated. In the present study, smaller limits of ethanol, pH and glycerine were applied to determinate CT necessity....Following the analysis of the different concentration, a correlation between glycerine and ethanol that directly influence microbiological protection of cosmetics products has been established. Indeed, by controlling ethanol, pH and glycerine, many products may be exempted from the CT.

Engels, T., Förster, T., & Von Rybinski, W. (1995). The influence of coemulsifier type on the stability of oil-in-water emulsions. Colloids and Surfaces A: Physicochemical and Engineering Aspects, 99(2-3), 141-149.

Abstract. Oil-in-water emulsions containing ethoxylated non-ionic surfactants may undergo a phase inversion to water-in-oil emulsions on heating. This temperature-induced phase inversion is utilized in the so-called phase inversion temperature (PIT) method for the preparation of finely dispersed bluish oil-in-water emulsions. PIT emulsions with polar oil components were prepared by adding mixtures of fatty alcohol ethoxylates with or without the coemulsifier glyceryl monostearate. In the phase inversion temperature range, microemulsion or liquid crystalline phases are formed depending on the type of emulsifier mixture used. The formation of a bicontinuous or lamellar structure is essential in order to obtain finely dispersed oil-in-water emulsions. In both phases the hydrophilic-lipophilic properties are balanced, which results in minimum interfacial tensions between oil and water phases. Fine dispersity, however, is not the only criterion for stable oil-in-water emulsions. Studies of different parameters of the emulsions give hints to the stabilization mechanism of the emulsifier/coemulsifier system. According to these results, low viscous PIT emulsions exhibit long-term storage stability, if the oil droplets are shielded against coalescence by a lamellar gel phase, which is imparted by the coemulsifier glyceryl monostearate.