Anti-aging cosmetics are widely used for improving signs of aged skin such as skin wrinkles, decreased elasticity, low dermal density and yellow skin tone. The present study evaluated the effects of c ...

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Anti-aging cosmetics are widely used for improving signs of aged skin such as skin wrinkles, decreased elasticity, low dermal density and yellow skin tone. The present study evaluated the effects of cosmetic formulations, eye cream and facial cream, containing palmitoyl peptides, Silybum marianum (S. marianum) seed oil, vitamin E and other functional ingredients on the improvement of facial wrinkles, elasticity, dermal density and skin tone after 4 weeks period of application on aged human skin. Healthy volunteers (n=20) with aged skin were recruited to apply the test materials facially twice per day for 4 weeks. Skin wrinkles, elasticity, dermal density and skin tone were measured instrumentally for assessing the improvement of skin aging. All the measurements were conducted prior to the application of test materials and at 2 and 4 weeks of treatment. Crow's feet wrinkles were decreased 5.97% after 2 weeks of test material application and 14.07% after 4 weeks of application in comparison of pre-application. Skin elasticity was increased 6.81% after 2 weeks and 8.79% after 4 weeks. Dermal density was increased 16.74% after 2 weeks and 27.63% after 4 weeks. With the L* value indicating skin brightness and the a* value indicating erythema (redness), the results showed that brightness was increased 1.70% after 2 weeks and 2.14% after 4 weeks, and erythema was decreased 10.45% after 2 weeks and 22.39% after 4 weeks. Hence, the test materials appear to exert some degree of anti-aging effects on aged human skin. There were no abnormal skin responses from the participants during the trial period. We conclude that the facial and eye cream containing palmitoyl peptides and S. marianum seed oil, vitamin E and other ingredients have effects on the improvement of facial wrinkles, elasticity, dermal density and skin tone (1).

An efficient, versatile and rapid method toward homologue series of lipophilic tetrapeptide derivatives (herein, the opioid peptides H-TIPP-OH and H-DIPP-OH) is reported. High atom economy and a minimal number of synthetic steps resulted from a one-pot tandem isomerization-cross metathesis-reduction sequence (ICMR), applicable both in solution and solid phase methodology. The broadly applicable synthesis proceeds with short reaction times and simple work-up, as illustrated in this work for alkylated opioid tetrapeptides (2).

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(1) Instrumental evaluation of anti-aging effects of cosmetic formulations containing palmitoyl peptides, Silybum marianum seed oil, vitamin E and other functional ingredients on aged human skin
Hyung Jin Hahn, Ho Jung Jung, Med Christine Schrammek-Drusios, Sung Nae Lee, Ji-Hyun Kim, Seung Bin Kwon, In-Sook An, Sungkwan An, Kyu Joong Ahn
Exp Ther Med. 2016 Aug; 12(2): 1171–1176. Published online 2016 Jun 9. doi: 10.3892/etm.2016.3447

(2) One-Pot Isomerization–Cross Metathesis–Reduction (ICMR) Synthesis of Lipophilic Tetrapeptides
Mouhamad Jida, Cecilia Betti, Peter W. Schiller, Dirk Tourwé, Steven Ballet
ACS Comb Sci. 2014 Jul 14; 16(7): 342–351. Published online 2014 Jun 6. doi: 10.1021/co500020a

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