REVIEW   Eucerin Atopi control BALM light texture 400 ml

Ingredients

Aqua, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Octyldodecanol, Caprylic-Capric-Triglyceride, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Behenyl Alcohol, Distarch Phosphate, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract, Ceramide NP, Tocopherol, Sodium PCA, Glycine, Arginine HCL, Decylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Carbomer, Citric Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Trisodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate

Let's look at all 28 ingredients in order of quantity as stated on the label. Here is a brief summary for space reasons. For the full text, studies and bibliography just click on the ingredient and, if you want to go deeper, it is a good read, perhaps a little complex because it is a scientific study, but it clarifies the ingredient/health relationship.

Glycerin.  In detergents, shampoos and other cosmetic products it is included in the formula with the aim of moisturising and softening the skin, protecting it from ageing or roughness.

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter is a butter obtained from the shea tree. It contains vitamin E, carotene, quercetin, epigallocatechin gallate and has antioxidant, emollient and moisturising properties.

Octyldodecanol, inserted in cosmetic formulations as a co-factor of skin permeation where it presumably acts as a plasticizer, giving flexibility and improving fluidity 

Caprylic/capric triglycerides medium-chain lipids that are incorporated into cosmetic products to increase their flow and viscosity.

Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil is grape seed oil. The cosmetic premise is that both grape seeds and grape skins possess compounds useful to the skin as emollients and antioxidants.

Behenyl Alcohol is a saturated aliphatic alcohol that has the ability to solidify and structure oil in fats and is used as a surfactant in cosmetic products.

Distarch Phosphate, Anti-caking agent and binder.

Glyceryl Stearate SE.  Anionic surfactant with an emulsifying function, i.e. a substance that tends to reduce the surface tension of a liquid in which it is dissolved and acts as an emollient. 

Oenothera Biennis Oil. Evening primrose oil has a moisturising function, strengthens the epidermal barrier and improves the smoothness of the skin.

Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract. Licorice has long been used as an anti-inflammatory and to reduce skin sensitisation, with excellent results.

Ceramide NP is a natural skin component and is included in facial creams as a support and aid to emollients to better moisturise the skin.

Tocopherol In recent years, vitamin E has often been used in cosmetic products such as detergents, shampoos and creams for its antioxidant properties and as a skin conditioning agent.

Sodium PCA   has a moisturising and humectant function.

Glycine as the primary amino acid in collagen, it is used to repair damaged penne and to improve its consistency.

Arginine HCL  is an amino acid that helps hormones maintain a healthy body and skin.

Decylene Glycol is a chemical compound included in the formula with several objectives: antibacterial activity and a thickening and foaming effect.

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate. an ester composed of Isostearic Acid, Glycerine, inserted as an emollient and emulsifier.

Carbomer is a chemical compound derived from acrylic acid and is used as a stabiliser, thickener and emulsifier in cosmetic products.

Citric Acid anticoagulant, antioxidant, preservative.

Ethylhexylglycerin It is a multifunctional cosmetic additive and is used as a strengthening agent in combination with Phenoxyethanol to achieve better protection against microbial growth. Unfortunately, recent studies have found that Phenoxyethanol can cause problems in the tear ducts on its own, so the simultaneous presence of Ethylhexylglycerine and Phenoxyethanol should advise against using the product on the face.

Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate    is a surfactant.

Caprylyl glycol  has a preservative function.

Sodium Hydroxide  is inserted in small quantities with the function of dissolving fats

Ascorbyl Palmitate  emulsifier and antioxidant.

Trisodium EDTA  A chemical compound whose function is to prevent unstable reactions of other chemical components within a product. It is what is known as a 'chelating' product.

Phenoxyethanol, a broad-spectrum preservative used in cosmetics against Gram-negative bacteria, moulds and yeasts. It occurs naturally in green tea but is produced chemically using phenol and ethylene oxide. As with many other preservatives included in the formula of cosmetic products, the scientific literature warns of general and specific contraindications concerning the application of this preservative. In particular, with regard to the eyes, this 2020 study by Jingyi Wang and others at Harvard University warns of the toxicity of Phenoxyethanol to the epithelial cells of the Meibomian gland, which secretes the human tear film, the main source of lipids, through its ducts. This cream also contains the enhancer Ethylhexylglycerin.

Sodium Benzoate. It is used in body care products and facial care products for its anti-bacterial and anti-fungal properties.

Conclusions

Let's get straight to the point: if this cream is used for hands and body, it is a very good cream, all the ingredients are of a very good level and do their job. The skin will certainly benefit as the anti-wrinkle and anti-bag under-eye action is provided by at least 4 of the 28 ingredients. The antioxidant and preservative action is not invasive as the ingredients that provide it are almost all at the bottom of the label, so in minimal quantities, but they safely do their job.

The problem, in the light of recent studies on Phenoxyethanol and Ethylhexylglycerine, is the application of this cream in the areas around the eyes because there is a risk of the tear ducts closing. The study that highlighted the risk is from 2020 and the formulas of this cream is definitely before that date, so we will see in the future if Eucerin wants to change the formula. In my personal experience, I have seen for myself that the manufacturers, in the event of any complaint about ingredients considered problematic by recent studies, take refuge behind the phrase: "the ingredient is regularly authorised by the Control Authority." And after this answer, of course, there is no more dialogue.