Ceramide NP (Ceramide 3) is a lipid molecule belonging to the specific species of ceramides, the main constituents of the human skin's defence barrier and lipids in the stratum corneum where it has the ability to form stable lamellar structures Ceramide NP is a ceramide containing non-hydroxy fatty acids and phytosphingosines, unlike Ceramide NH, Ceramide NS and Ceramide AS which contain different fats.  

The name defines the structure of the molecule:

• Ceramide refers to a type of lipid (fat) that is composed of sphingosine and a fatty acid. Ceramides are found in high concentrations within the cell membrane. They are one of the lipids that make up sphingomyelin, one of the main lipids in the lipid double layer.
• NP stands for "Normal Phase", a term used in chromatography to refer to the polarity of a molecule. In the context of ceramides, NP usually refers to a specific type of Ceramide molecule.

The synthesis process takes place in several stages:

• Selection of starting materials. The synthesis of Ceramide NP begins with the selection of appropriate raw materials: sphingosine, a type of amino alcohol and a fatty acid.
• Condensation reaction. Sphingosine and fatty acid undergo a condensation reaction with the removal of a water molecule to form a new bond, resulting in the creation of a Ceramide.
• Hydrogenation. The new Ceramide is hydrogenated by adding hydrogen atoms to the molecule of Ceramide, in this way it helps to stabilize the molecule and improve its moisturizing properties.
• Purification. After the hydrogenation process, Ceramide is purified by processes such as filtration, washing and drying to remove any unwanted by-products or impurities.
• Quality Control. The final step in the synthesis of Ceramide NP is quality control with tests to ensure that Ceramide meets the required specifications and standards.

It takes the form of a white powder.

What it is used for and where

Cosmetics - Pharmaceutical

Hair conditioning agent. A large number of ingredients with specific purposes can co-exist in a hair shampoo: cleansers, conditioners, thickeners, mattifying agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, preservatives, special additives. However, the indispensable ingredients are the cleansers and conditioners as they are necessary and sufficient for hair cleansing and manageability. The others act as commercial and non-essential auxiliaries such as: appearance, fragrance, colouring, etc. Hair conditioning agents have the task of increasing shine, manageability and volume, and reducing static electricity, especially after treatments such as colouring, ironing, waving, drying and brushing. They are, in practice, dispersing agents that may contain cationic surfactants, thickeners, emollients, polymers. The typology of hair conditioners includes: intensive conditioners, instant conditioners, thickening conditioners, drying conditioners.

Skin conditioning agent - Miscellaneous.  Ingredient that has the task of modifying the condition of the skin when it is damaged or dry by reducing its flakiness and restoring its elasticity.

In a study to evaluate the potential water retention capacity of an oil-water emulsion, Ceramide 3 (Ceramide NP) was shown to exert a beneficial synergistic effect on the biochemical properties of the skin, such as skin hydration and protection from irritation by surfactants (1). A subsequent study confirmed the ability of Ceramide NP to restore barrier function impaired by topical corticosteroids. (2).

Health and Safety Considerations

Safety in Use
Ceramide NP is considered safe for use in cosmetic products. It is not known to cause irritation or sensitization and is generally well tolerated by all skin types, including sensitive skin.

Allergic Reactions
Allergic reactions to Ceramide NP are extremely rare, as its biomimetic structure closely resembles the natural ceramides in the skin.

Toxicity and Carcinogenicity
It has been extensively evaluated and approved for use in cosmetic products by major regulatory authorities.

Environmental Considerations
As a synthetic ingredient, the production of Ceramide NP has minimal environmental impact compared to sourcing ceramides from natural animal sources. It is biodegradable and poses no significant environmental risks when used and disposed of properly.

Regulatory Status
Ceramide NP is approved for use in cosmetics by major regulatory authorities, including the European Union and the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in the United States.

For more information:

Ceramide NP studies

• Molecular Formula  C₃₆H₇₁NO₄
• Molercular Weight    582.0 
• CAS  100403-19-8    178436-06-1    
• UNII    4370DF050B
• EC Number   812-963-1    309-560-3
• DSSTox Substance ID  
• IUPAC  (Z)-N-[(2S,3S,4R)-1,3,4-trihydroxyoctadecan-2-yl]octadec-9-enamide
• InChI=1S/C36H71NO4/c1-3-5-7-9-11-13-15-17-18-19-21-23-25-27-29-31-35(40)37-33(32-38)36(41)34(39)30-28-26-24-22-20-16-14-12-10-8-6-4-2/h17-18,33-34,36,38-39,41H,3-16,19-32H2,1-2H3,(H,37,40)/b18-17-/t33-,34+,36-/m0/s1  
• InChl Key    ATGQXSBKTQANOH-UWVGARPKSA-N  
• SMILES   CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C(C(CO)NC(=O)CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCC)O)O
• MDL number  
• PubChem Substance ID    

Synonyms:

• (Z)-N-[(2S,3S,4R)-1,3,4-trihydroxyoctadecan-2-yl]octadec-9-enamide
• N-oleoylphytosphingosine
• Ceramide 3
• Ceramide IIIB

References______________________________________________________________________

(1) Huang HC, Chang TM. Ceramide 1 and ceramide 3 act synergistically on skin hydration and the transepidermal water loss of sodium lauryl sulfate-irritated skin. Int J Dermatol. 2008 Aug;47(8):812-9. doi: 10.1111/j.1365-4632.2008.03687.x.

Abstract. Background: Stratum corneum intercellular lipids, such as ceramides, play an important role in the regulation of skin water barrier homeostasis and water-holding capacity. Aim To evaluate the potential water retention capacity of control emulsion and three oil-in-water (o/w) emulsions containing ceramide 1, ceramide 3, or both.....Conclusions: It can be concluded that all the tested ceramide-containing emulsions improved skin barrier function when compared with untreated skin. There was some indication that ceramides 1 and 3 contained in emulsion C might exert a beneficial synergistic effect on skin biochemical properties, such as skin hydration and TEWL, and play a key role in the protection mechanism against SLS irritation.

(2) Lim SH, Kim EJ, Lee CH, Park GH, Yoo KM, Nam SJ, Shin KO, Park K, Choi EH. A Lipid Mixture Enriched by Ceramide NP with Fatty Acids of Diverse Chain Lengths Contributes to Restore the Skin Barrier Function Impaired by Topical Corticosteroid. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2021 Jul 19. doi: 10.1159/000518517.