Hexyldecyl laurate is a chemical compound, an alkyl ester obtained by the reaction of 2-hexyldecanol with lauric acid.

The name describes the structure of the molecule:

• Hexyldecyl. A hydrocarbon chain that is a combination of hexyl, a chain with six carbon atoms, and decyl, a chain with ten carbon atoms, for a total of sixteen carbon atoms.
• Laurate is the ester or salt form of lauric acid, a saturated fatty acid with a chain of 12 carbon atoms. The term 'laurate' indicates that the hexyl alcohol has been esterified with lauric acid.

The synthesis process takes place in different steps:

• Production of hexyldecanol, produced from hexyldecene, a type of alpha-olefin, through a process called hydroformylation or oxosynthesis. This process involves the addition of a formyl group (CHO) and a hydrogen atom to the double bond of an alkene.
• Production of lauric acid, a saturated fatty acid that is typically obtained from natural sources such as coconut oil or palm kernel oil.
• Esterification. Hexyldecanol and lauric acid are then subjected to an esterification process where the carboxylic group (COOH) of lauric acid reacts with the hydroxyl group (OH) of hexyldecanol to form an ester, releasing water as a by-product. The resulting compound is Hexyldecyl laurate.

It occurs as a colourless liquid.

What it is used for and where

Cosmetics

It can be formulated into creams, liquid soaps, emulsions and sunscreens. It has emollient and emulsifying stabilising properties with excellent stability which improves the spreadability of the product in which it is included. It also acts as a thickener and conditioner.

Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss.  Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.

Skin conditioning agent - Occlusive. Ingredient whose task is to modify the condition of the skin when it is damaged or dry by reducing flaking and restoring elasticity. They have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss.

Dosage: 5-20%, suitable for all types of oily materials for cosmetics.

Safety

Hexyldecyl laurate was recognised as safe by the CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) on 18-3-2019.

• Molecular Formula  C₁₈H₃₆O₂
• Molecular Weight     284.48
• CAS   34362-27-1,  227450-65-9,  34316-64-8  
• UNII    4CG9F9W01Q
• EC Number   251-959-9
• DSSTox Substance ID  
• IUPAC  2-hexyldecyl dodecanoate
• InChI=1S/C18H36O2/c1-3-5-7-9-10-11-12-13-14-16-18(19)20-17-15-8-6-4-2/h3-17H2,1-2H3
• InChl Key      CMBYOWLFQAFZCP-UHFFFAOYSA-N
• SMILES   O=C(OCCCCCC)CCCCCCCCCCC
• MDL number  
• PubChem Substance ID    

Synonyms:

• Hexyl laurate
• Cetiol A
• Laurinsaeurehexylester
• Hexyl dodecanoat