Compendium of the most significant studies with reference to properties, effects.

Kim E, Nam GW, Kim S, Lee H, Moon S, Chang I. Influence of polyol and oil concentration in cosmetic products on skin moisturization and skin surface roughness. Skin Res Technol. 2007 Nov;13(4):417-24. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0846.2007.00246.x.

Abstract. The purpose of this study is to investigate the optimum combination of polyols and oils in moisturizing cosmetic products to improve the human skin moisturization and skin surface roughness. Polyols and oils are essential ingredients in skin care products, but it is still not understood how their concentrations affect their efficacy and sensory properties on human skin. We investigated the effect of polyol and oil concentration on skin properties by noninvasive methods.

Jeong, C. B., Han, J. Y., Cho, J. C., Suh, K. D., & Nam, G. W. (2013). Analysis of electrical property changes of skin by oil‐in‐water emulsion components. International journal of cosmetic science, 35(4), 402-410.

Abstract. The purpose of this study was to investigate the moisturizing effect of oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion components. There are numerous types of oils, waxes, polyols and surfactants used as ingredients in skincare products. However, the moisturizing effect of each ingredient and understanding each use to make an effective moisturizing products are still not well understood.

Uyama, M., Ando, Y., & Hatakeyama, Y. (2020). The Complex Value Brought to Skincare Products by a Novel Silicone Emulsifier. Journal of Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan, 54(3), 237-244.

Abstract.  Generally speaking, in order to obtain a natural finish, the foundations should be applied evenly. Hence, we aimed to develop new formulations of skincare products which have excellent compatibility with makeup foundations.

Kim, D. H., & Lee, J. J. (2021). A Study on the Emulsifying Stability of W/O Type Sunscreen Cream by the Hansen Solubility Parameter. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, 47(4), 273-280.

Abstract. In this study, the compatibility between various oils in the W/O emulsion was derived numerically using Hansen solubility parameter (HSP) at first. HSP is represented a dispersion degree, a polarity, and a hydrgen bond in a composition. In this study, various emulsions were prepared according to the types of oils with different HSP values and then monitored by a viscosity and morphology according to the time and temperature.

Juncan, A. M., Morgovan, C. L. A. U. D. I. U., & Rus, L. L. (2019). Selection and application of synthetic versus natural emollients in the formulation of skin care products. Rev Chim, 70(8), 2764-2768.

Abstract.The aim of this study was to evaluate the quality control and the cosmetic qualities of the developed formulations, comparatively, of topical applied synthetic oil versus a natural origin wax blend

Kutz, G. Modern formulation concepts with actual raw materials.

Abstract. Overview: formulation concepts and leading substances.

Olejnik, A., Schroeder, G., & Nowak, I. (2015). The tetrapeptide N-acetyl-Pro-Pro-Tyr-Leu in skin care formulations—physicochemical and release studies. International journal of pharmaceutics, 492(1-2), 161-168.

Abstract.  In this paper we present new skincare formulations such as hydrogels, oil-in-water emulsions and water-in-oil emulsion containing a tetrapeptide (N-acetyl-Pro-Pro-Tyr-Leu). These formulations were characterized in terms of physicochemical parameters (pH, viscosity), stability and particle size distribution.

Rodrigues, R. D. O., Damasceno, G. A. D. B., Barreto, S. M. A. G., Fernandes, J. M., Telaprolu, K. C., Rocha-Filho, P. A. D., ... & Ferrari, M. (2019). Vegetable moisturizing raw material from “Caatinga” Brazilian biome: safety and efficacy evaluations of O/W cosmetic emulsions containing Kalanchoe brasiliensis extract. Brazilian Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, 54.

Abstract. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the safety of Kalanchoe brasiliensis extract, followed by the development of an oil in water emulsion containing the K. brasiliensis leaves extract and evaluating its clinical moisturizing efficacy.