Compendium of the most significant studies with reference to properties, intake, effects.

Hokao, E., Hirai, K., Yamashita, M., Nakabayashi, J., & Momose, S. (2003). Prevention of color transfer through interaction of over-coating film and pigment layer. Journal of Society of Cosmetic Chemists of Japan, 37(4), 275-281.

Abstract. Colour transfer, which occurs when lipstick adheres to cups and clothing, is an important problem that has not yet been solved. We have therefore devised a new item called 'lipstick overcoat' to prevent lipstick colour migration. In order to realise this new item, we thought that if the surface of the lipstick film could be covered with an oleophobic solvent and, at the same time, the lipstick film could be gelled with a gelling agent to reduce its adhesion to objects, the effect would be rapid and the colour transfer would be prevented. Two materials with different affinities to lipstick, Silica and Polyperfluoromethylisopropylether (PF), were selected, and lipstick overcoats obtained using these materials were used to confirm the colour migration prevention effect and to verify the mechanism. The interface between the lipstick and the lipstick overcoat film was observed to show that Silica migrates from the PF to the lipstick film according to the difference in affinity, and the gelation of the lipstick due to the migration of Silica was confirmed by viscosity measurement, confirming that the phenomenon actually occurred as hypothesised. Furthermore, the analysis of IR peak intensity over time suggested that not only Silica but also PF migrates into the lipstick film immediately after application, and this phenomenon is thought to further enhance the colour migration prevention effect and improve the durability of the effect....... lipstick oils Triethylhexanoin and Liquid paraffin were used respectively. The heat of immersion was determined ... 

Fiume, M. M., Bergfeld, W. F., Belsito, D. V., Hill, R. A., Klaassen, C. D., Liebler, D. C., ... & Heldreth, B. (2022). Amended Safety Assessment of Triglycerides as Used in Cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 10915818221123790.

Abstract. The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 51 triglycerides; 25 of these ingredients were previously reviewed by the Panel, and 26 are reviewed herein for the first time. The majority of the ingredients named in this assessment have several functions, with most reported to function as skin conditioning agents (occlusive or emollient) and/or viscosity increasing agents in cosmetics; some are also reported to function as a fragrance or solvent. The Panel reviewed relevant new data, including frequency and concentration of use, and considered the data from previous reports. The Panel concluded the 51 triglycerides reviewed in this report are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment....

Kang, N. G., Park, J. E., Song, Y. S., Kim, J. A., Park, M. E., Lee, Y. H., ... & Kang, S. H. (2002). Cryptotanshinone for treating acne vulgaris. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea, 28(1), 99-115.

Abstract. Tests of stability and toxicity, and clinical evaluation of anti-acne activity suggest that cryptotanshinone, a constituent of the roots of Salvia miltiorrhiza Bunge, is an effective active ingredient for acne vulgaris treatments. Acne vulgaris, called acne or pimples, is the most common disease of the pilosebaceous follicle unit of the skin. It affects nearly 80% of people between the ages of 11 and 30. Approximately 30% of teenagers have acne of sufficient severity to require medical treatment. Acne is a follicular disorder of the skin. It occurs in specialized pilosebaceous units on the face and body. Acne develops when these specialized follicles undergo pathologic alterations that result in the formation of non-inflammatory lesions (comedones) and inflammatory lesions (papules, pustules and nodules). An abnormality of keratinizing epithelium of these follicles, thought to be due to the action of sebum synthesized and secreted by the androgen-sensitive sebaceous glands, leads to inflammation induced by the follicular bacterium Propionibacterium acnes. Therapy involves treatments that modify these pathogenic factors and includes drugs with antikeratinizing, antibacterial and antiseborrheic actions. Acne vulgaris is a very frequent disease, seen primarily in adolescents, involving the sebaceous follicles. Acne vulgaris is characterized by a great variety of clinical inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions: comedones, papules, pustules, nodules, cysts and scars. Acne vulgaris is a multi-factorial disease. Although its pathogenicity is unclear, extensive studies have shown that hyperseborrhea, superinfection by P. acnes and endocrinologic androgenic changes play a role in the development of acne vulgaris.… Triethylhexanoin solution containing 0.1% (w/w) cryptotanshinone was prepared for the UV …

Yamaguchi, K., Maeda, M., Masaki, H., & Iwabuchi, T. (2021). Oil Thickening with Organoclay Enhances the Ultraviolet Absorption Ability of Sunscreen on a Skin-mimicking Substrate. Journal of Oleo Science, ess20309.

Abstract. The performance of sunscreen products depends on their ultraviolet (UV) absorption ability through the film formed on the skin surface upon their application. Therefore, it is important that a uniform film is formed on the uneven skin surface for effective sunscreen performance. Because most UV filters are oil soluble, we hypothesized in this study that increasing the viscosity of the oil phase of a sunscreen product can improve the performance of the sunscreen. We first examined the association between the concentration of the oil thickener and the UV absorption ability of the sunscreen product using a skin-mimicking substrate (SMS). Among all thickeners examined (petrolatum, dextrin palmitate, silica silylate, and organoclay), organoclay and silica silylate significantly increased the UV absorbance of sunscreen on the SMS in a concentration-dependent manner. Thereafter, we examined film uniformity to elucidate the mechanism underlying the observed increase in UV absorption. The uniformity of film thickness on the SMS increased with increasing organoclay content, based on decreased standard deviations of film thickness. Our results showed that increasing the viscosity of the oil phase with organoclay resulted in the formation of a uniform film by preventing the sunscreen from flowing into the grooves when applied on the SMS, thereby increasing UV absorbance by more than two-fold that of sunscreen without organoclay. Thus, the use of thickeners, such as organoclay, increases the viscosity of the oil phase at a low shear rate after the high shear of application. This is an effective strategy for improving the overall quality and performance of sunscreen products....The oil phase, thickened by the addition of each thickener, was prepared as follows: 18 g triethylhexanoin containing 2 g DHHB...

Sharmila, D. J. S., & Lakshmanan, A. (2022). Molecular dynamics study of plant bioactive nutraceutical keto-Curcumin encapsulated in medium chain triglyceride oil-in-Water nanoemulsion that are stabilized by globular whey proteins. Journal of Molecular Liquids, 362, 119753.

Abstract. The remarkable surge in the demand of ketogenic food from the consumers, primarily for the plant based medium chain triglyceride diet is because of its effectiveness in managing the body mass index. Current nutritional and therapeutic data suggested that, the energy delivered to the body cells in the form of ketone groups from medium chain triglycerides and keto-Curcumin has an improved efficacy than that of carbohydrates in keeping the overall health of the most delegate cells. However, there are no detailed atomic and molecular level interaction studies done so far to characterize the keto-Curcumin encapsulation in medium chain triglyceride oil-in-water nanoemulsions that are further stabilized by the globular proteins of enhanced nutritional index. Hence, an all atom molecular dynamics simulation was performed to decipher the molecular interactions exist between the different components of above nanoemulsion in aqueous medium. Our simulation investigation explored the structural morphology of keto-Curcumin binding with medium chain triglyceride molecules with bent angle of above 120° in order to preserve the stability of its most beneficial keto-tautameric form of high anti-oxidant potential. A unique preference of dihedral angles that decide the position of two carbonyl groups of diketone moiety of heptadiene chain of keto-Curcumin is favoured to be in the anti-eclipsed conformational choice of + 120° or −120°. Addition of globular whey proteins of nutritional importance such as beta-lactoglobulins and alpha-lactalbumins were enhancing the stability of keto-Curcumin encapsulated in coconut derived medium chain triglyceride as well as sorbitan monolaurate oil-in-water nanoemulsion through their hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of interactions at the interface.

Johann, W. W., Caroline, L. K., Trevor, G. B., & Chris, D. (2003). Formulating for efficacy. In Proceedings of the SCSK Conference (pp. 457-468). Society of Cosmetic Scientists of Korea.

Abstract. Active ingredients have been around in cosmetics for a long time but have they really resulted in active cosmetic products\ulcorner In order to achieve this, the right active needs to be delivered to the right location at the right concentration for the correct period of time. And the extent (and therefore the concentration) of this delivery depends on the formulation. From a rather theoretical approach based on the polarity of the active ingredient, the stratum corneum and the oil phase, the Relative Polarity Index was established that enables the selection of a suitable emollient for ensuring skin penetration of the active ingredient. Practical examples subsequently show the validity of this approach that demonstrates that one can regulate the delivery of an active molecule (and therefore the efficacy of a cosmetic formulation) by selection and control of the emollient system. Cosmetic formulations are generally quite complex mixtures and subsequent experiments using different emulsifier systems indicated that this component of a cosmetic formulation could also have an impact on steering the active ingredient to the right layer of the skin, although it is too early to be able to derive general rules from this.