Evernia furfuracea extract (Treemoss extract) is the synthesised extract obtained from the moss Evernia furfuracea.

Evernia furfuracea  is a species of lichen, a moss that grows at the base and develops on the bark of trees, usually belonging to the Pinaceae family such as firs and pines,  or to the Fagaceae, usually oaks. It grows in China, France, Bulgaria, Greece and Turkey. An extract used in cosmetics is obtained from this lichen.

The synthesis process takes place in different steps:

• Harvesting. Lichen Evernia furfuracea is harvested by hand to avoid damaging the lichen or the trees it grows on.
• Drying. After harvesting, the lichen is dried either naturally in the sun or in a controlled environment using a dehydrator.
• Extraction. Once dried, the lichen is ready for the extraction process. This usually involves soaking the lichen in a solvent such as ethanol or water. The solvent helps to extract the beneficial compounds from the lichen.
• Filtration and evaporation. The mixture is filtered to remove the solid parts of the lichen, leaving only the liquid extract. The solvent is evaporated by a distillation process, leaving the concentrated extract of Evernia Furfuracea.
• Purification. In this final stage of the process, any remaining impurities are removed from the extract to obtain a pure, high-quality Evernia furfuracea extract.

The extract appears in the form of a white or yellowish-brown powder.

Evernia furfuracea extract is an extract obtained by a chemical process.

What it is used for and where

Cosmetics

It is a restricted ingredient III/92 as a Relevant Item in the Annexes of the European Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009 2003/15/EC. The presence of the substance (Treemoss extract) must be indicated in the list of ingredients referred to in Article 19(1)g when its concentration exceeds:

- 0.001% in leave-on products

- 0.01% in rinse-off products 

It is included in cosmetic formulations to impart musk and tree scent.

As a cosmetic INCI ingredient, it acts as follows:

Perfuming. Unlike fragrance, which can also contain slightly less pleasant or characteristic odours, the term perfume indicates only very pleasant fragrances.

Production method: maceration in hot or cold water for 3 days, crushing, extraction using isopropanol and cyclohexane, washing, filtration and evaporation of solvents. After this stage, a rough moss product is obtained, which must then be washed with alcohol to remove the waxes, which are insoluble in alcohol. 

In the composition of Evernia furfuracea there are two compounds that have created cases of sensitisation: atranol (2,6-Dihydroxy-4-methyl-benzladehyde) and chloroatranol (3-Chloro -2,6-Dihydroxy-4-methyl-benzladehyde). These two chemical compounds were banned by European Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 on 2 August 2017:

Commercial applications

Ingredient in Perfumery. Evernia furfuracea is used for its rich, musky scent, often as a base note in fragrances.

Fixative in Perfumes. It helps prolong the longevity of the fragrance on the skin, acting as a natural fixative.

Antimicrobial Properties. It has shown some antimicrobial properties, making it useful in certain skincare products.

Aromatherapy Products. Used in aromatherapy products for its relaxing, earthy scent.

Cosmetic Products. Besides fragrances, it can be found in other cosmetic products like lotions and soaps for its aroma.

• Molecular Formula    C₉H₉NO₂
• EC Number     289-860-8
• CAS   90028-67-4

The most relevant studies on the subject have been selected with a summary of their contents:

Evernia furfuracea studies