Polyphenols are a diverse group of naturally occurring compounds found abundantly in plants. They are known for their potent antioxidant properties, which help combat oxidative stress and neutralize free radicals. Polyphenols are present in various foods and beverages, including fruits, vegetables, tea, coffee, and red wine. In cosmetics, they are valued for their ability to protect the skin from environmental damage, reduce inflammation, and improve overall skin health.
Chemical Composition and Structure:
- Basic Structure: Polyphenols are characterized by the presence of multiple phenolic rings in their structure. These rings are benzene rings with hydroxyl groups (-OH) attached, which contribute to their antioxidant properties.
- Types: There are several classes of polyphenols, including flavonoids, phenolic acids, and tannins. Each class has a unique structure but shares the common feature of having multiple phenolic units.
- Functional Groups: The hydroxyl groups on the phenolic rings are crucial for the antioxidant activity of polyphenols, as they can donate hydrogen atoms to neutralize free radicals.
The chemical formula for polyphenols varies depending on the specific compound. For example:
- Flavonoids: Typically have a C15H10O7 formula.
- Phenolic Acids: Typically have formulas such as C9H10O4 for caffeic acid.
- Tannins: Are complex molecules with variable formulas depending on their polymerization level.
Physical Properties:
- Appearance: Polyphenols can appear as powders, crystals, or liquids, depending on their specific type and purity.
- Solubility: They are generally soluble in water and organic solvents, though solubility can vary based on the polyphenol type and its formulation.
- Odor: Polyphenols typically have a neutral to mild odor, which may vary based on their concentration and form.
Production Process:
- Extraction: Polyphenols are extracted from plant sources using solvents like water, ethanol, or methanol. Extraction methods may include maceration, infusion, or advanced techniques such as supercritical fluid extraction.
- Purification: The crude extract is purified through filtration, centrifugation, and chromatographic techniques (e.g., high-performance liquid chromatography, HPLC) to isolate and concentrate the polyphenol content.
- Formulation: The purified polyphenols are incorporated into cosmetic products. This step involves dissolving the polyphenols in suitable carriers or stabilizers to maintain their efficacy and stability in the final formulation.
Applications:
- Cosmetics: Polyphenols are used in a range of skincare products, including anti-aging creams, serums, and masks. Their antioxidant properties help protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals, reduce inflammation, and improve skin texture and elasticity.
- Personal Care: They are also included in products designed to enhance skin hydration, promote even skin tone, and support overall skin health.
Environmental and Safety Considerations:
- Environmental Impact: The production of polyphenols involves the use of natural plant sources. Sustainable practices and eco-friendly extraction methods are recommended to minimize environmental impact.
- Safety: Polyphenols are generally regarded as safe for topical use. They are well-tolerated in standard cosmetic concentrations. However, as with all active ingredients, they should be used according to established guidelines to avoid potential allergic reactions or skin irritations. Safety assessments and dermatological testing are advisable for new formulations or high concentrations to ensure both safety and effectiveness.
Studies
Polyphenols are natural plant products found mainly in fruit, vegetables and plant-based drinks such as wine and tea. The beneficial and antioxidant effects of edible plant polyphenols have been extensively studied. Epidemiological studies and related meta-analyzes have repeatedly reported that high intake of polyphenols is associated with a reduced risk of developing various chronic diseases, including cardiovascular disease, specific forms of cancer, diabetes, osteoporosis and neurodegenerative diseases (1).
The exact mechanism underlying these effects has not yet been completely clarified. However, the radical effects of polyphenols are accepted as an active mechanism to reduce oxidative stress (2).
Polyphenols may also be involved in cell signaling pathways; for example, mitogen-activated protein kinase and PI3K / Akt signaling cascades can influence cellular processes involved in the initiation and progression of cancer, cardiovascular disease and neurodegeneration (3).
In wine they take on quality significance as they guarantee excellent organoleptic characteristics.
References_______________________________________________________________________
(1) Scalbert A, Manach C, Morand C, Remesy C. Dietary polyphenols and the prevention of diseases. Crit Rev Food Sci Nutr. 2005;45:287–306
(2) Perron NR, García CR, Pinzón JR, Chaur MN, Brumaghim JL. Antioxidant and prooxidant effects of polyphenol compounds on copper-mediated DNA damage. J Inorg Biochem. 2011;105:745–53
(3) Vauzour D, Rodriguez-Mateos A, Corona G, Oruna-Concha MJ, Spencer JP. Polyphenols and human health: prevention of disease and mechanisms of action. Nutrients. 2010;2:1106–31