Omega-3 are a class of essential fatty acids that the body cannot produce on its own, which is why they must be obtained through diet or supplements. These fatty acids are well-known for their general health benefits but also have significant cosmetic applications. The primary types of omega-3 include alpha-linolenic acid (ALA), eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA). In skincare, omega-3s are valued for their anti-inflammatory, moisturizing, and regenerative properties.

Chemical Composition and Structure

Omega-3s are polyunsaturated fatty acids with a chemical structure characterized by multiple double bonds, starting at the third carbon atom from the end of the chain, hence the name "omega-3." ALA is primarily derived from plant sources (flaxseeds, chia seeds, walnuts), while EPA and DHA are generally sourced from marine sources (fish oil and algae). Their structure makes them particularly effective at protecting cell membranes and modulating skin inflammation.

Physical Properties

They are oily liquids and are liposoluble, meaning they dissolve in fats. Due to their sensitivity to light, oxygen, and heat, they must be handled carefully during formulation to avoid oxidation. They are often incorporated into oils and hydrating serums, as they are excellent emollients that soften and nourish the skin.

Production Process

Omega-3s are extracted from natural sources such as flaxseeds, fish oil, or algae. The extraction process can be done through cold pressing or supercritical CO₂ to ensure that the fatty acids do not degrade. After extraction, omega-3s are refined and stabilized for inclusion in cosmetic products or as dietary supplements. 

• Selection of Raw Materials: Omega-3s are primarily extracted from plant and marine sources, such as fish oil (from fatty fish like salmon, mackerel, and sardines) and flaxseed, chia, and hemp oils. Sources are selected for their high content of Omega-3 fatty acids, such as alpha-linolenic acid (ALA), eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA).

• Extraction: The extraction of Omega-3s occurs through appropriate methods, such as cold pressing or solvent extraction. For fish oil, refining is used to obtain a pure and concentrated oil. For plant sources, cold pressing is often used to maintain quality and nutrients.

• Filtration and Refining: The extracted oils are filtered to remove undissolved solids and impurities. For fish oil, this process also includes deodorization and bleaching to improve the flavor and appearance of the final product.

• Concentration: Omega-3s can be concentrated through techniques such as molecular distillation or using chromatographic columns. This step is important for increasing the concentration of EPA and DHA, making the final product more effective.

• Quality Control and Packaging: Finally, Omega-3s undergo quality control checks to verify their purity, efficacy, and compliance with standards. After analysis, they are packaged in appropriate containers, often in forms that protect the fatty acids from oxidation, such as dark bottles or capsules.

Applications

• Skincare: Omega-3s are used in creams and serums for their moisturizing and reparative properties. They help maintain the skin barrier by reducing transepidermal water loss and improving skin elasticity.

• Anti-inflammatory Products: Due to their ability to reduce inflammation, omega-3s are ideal for treating sensitive, red, or inflamed skin conditions like dermatitis and rosacea.

• Regenerative Products: Omega-3s stimulate cell renewal and tissue repair, making them effective in after-sun products or for aging skin.

The benefits of these fats have recently been reduced. Cardiovascular protection today is effectively achieved with anticoagulants and statins.

They are however useful for triglyceride reduction.

Health and Safety Considerations

Safety in Use
Omega-3s are considered safe for use in cosmetics and dietary supplements. They are well tolerated by the skin and do not cause significant allergic reactions. Supplements and cosmetic products containing omega-3s are approved by major regulatory authorities such as the European Union and the FDA.

Allergic Reactions
Allergic reactions to omega-3s are rare, but it is still advisable to perform a patch test before use in cosmetic products, especially for individuals with highly sensitive skin or known allergies to seafood (in the case of marine-derived omega-3s).

Toxicity and Carcinogenicity
Omega-3s are often associated with benefits for cellular health and are considered protective against inflammation and oxidative damage.

Environmental Considerations
Marine-derived omega-3s may raise environmental concerns regarding overfishing, but plant-based and algae-derived alternatives are considered sustainable. Extraction from plant sources such as flaxseed and algae oil is eco-friendly and promotes the use of renewable resources.

Regulatory Status
Omega-3s are approved for use in cosmetic products and dietary supplements by major regulatory authorities such as the European Union and the FDA. They are widely used in a variety of skincare products and general health formulations.

Omega-3 studies

Molecular Formula: C₂₀H₃₂O₂

Molecular Weight: 304.474 g/mol

UNII: 2K2DJ01BB7

CAS: 24880-40-8  2091-26-1

Synonyms:

• Bishomostearidonic acid
• 8Z,11Z,14Z,17Z-eicosatetraenoic acid
• Omega-3 arachidonmic acid
• 8, 11, 14, 17-icosatetraenoic acid