Cetoleth-20 is a chemical compound, 20 mol partially unsaturated alkyl polyethylene glycol (PEG (Polyethylene glycol)) ether omega-9 unsaturated 18 carbon chains with a variable polyethylene glycol (PEG (Polyethylene glycol)) ether of C16 and C18 alcohol, ethoxylated. 6 mol.

It is an ethoxylated cetyl alcohol used as an emulsifier, surfactant, and stabilizer in a wide range of cosmetic and personal care products. Thanks to its ability to mix oils and water, it is an essential ingredient in emulsions such as creams, lotions, and serums, enabling uniform distribution of ingredients. It is known for improving the texture of formulations, giving a smooth and silky feel on the skin without leaving greasy residues.

Chemical Composition and Structure

Cetoleth-20 is a mixture of cetyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol, with ethylene oxide (hence the term "ethoxylated"). This ethoxylation process creates a molecule that can bind to both water and oil molecules, making it an effective emulsifier. Its chemical structure consists of a long hydrophobic chain (cetyl alcohol) combined with a hydrophilic part derived from ethylene oxide, allowing its solubility in both water and oils.

Physical Properties

It appears as a white or yellowish waxy solid, soluble in water and oils. At room temperature, it has a creamy consistency and can be easily incorporated into liquid and semi-solid formulations. It has excellent stabilizing properties and helps emulsions remain stable over time, preventing phase separation between oil and water-based ingredients.

Production Process

Cetoleth-20 is produced through a process called ethoxylation, where cetyl alcohol (typically derived from natural oils such as coconut or palm oil) is treated with ethylene oxide. This process creates a non-ionic emulsifier that can be used in various cosmetic applications.

• Preparation of Components: The main ingredients for producing Cetoleth-20 include fatty alcohols, such as cetyl and oleyl alcohol, and ethylene oxide. These components are weighed and prepared for the reaction.

• Esterification: Cetyl alcohol is treated with ethylene oxide in an ethoxylation process. This is done by heating the alcohol in the presence of ethylene oxide, which is slowly added to facilitate the reaction. During this phase, the alcohol reacts with ethylene oxide to form a polymer, in this case, Cetoleth-20.

• Reaction Monitoring: During the reaction, temperature and pressure are monitored to ensure the process proceeds correctly. The viscosity of the product is checked to ensure it reaches the desired properties.

• Purification: Once the reaction is complete, the produced Cetoleth-20 is purified to remove any impurities and chemical residues. This may include distillation or filtration processes to achieve a high-quality product.

• Quality Control and Packaging: Finally, Cetoleth-20 undergoes quality control checks to verify its purity and functional properties. After analysis, it is packaged for distribution and use in cosmetic and skincare products.

Applications

• Skincare: Used as an emulsifier and stabilizer in creams, lotions, and serums to achieve a smooth and homogeneous texture. It helps mix oily and water-based ingredients, ensuring even distribution of active ingredients.

• Haircare: Employed in conditioners and hair masks to improve hair manageability and softness without weighing it down.

• Sun care and makeup: Also used in sun care products and foundations to enhance texture and stabilize oil-based formulations.

INCI Functions:

Surfactant - Emulsifying agent. Emulsions are thermodynamically unstable. Emulsifiers have the property to reduce the oil/water or water/oil interfacial tension, improve emulsion stability and also directly influence the stability, sensory properties and surface tension of sunscreens by modulating their filmometric performance.

Surfactant - Cleansing agent. Cosmetic products used to cleanse the skin utilise the surface-active action that produces a lowering of the surface tension of the stratum corneum, facilitating the removal of dirt and impurities.

CAS: 8065-81-4

Safety. The term 'eth' refers to the ethoxylation reaction with ethylene oxide after which residues of ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane, chemical compounds considered carcinogenic, may remain. The degree of safety therefore depends on the degree of purity of the compound obtained. At present, no manufacturer is known to provide this information on the label.

Health and Safety Considerations

Safety in Use
Cetoleth-20 is considered safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products. It is widely used in skincare and haircare formulations without known side effects. Major regulatory authorities such as the European Union and the FDA allow its use in cosmetic products, provided it is used at appropriate concentrations.

Allergic Reactions
Allergic reactions to Cetoleth-20 are rare. However, in individuals with particularly sensitive or reactive skin, it is always advisable to perform a patch test before using products containing this ingredient.

Toxicity and Carcinogenicity
 It has been extensively tested and is considered safe for cosmetic use. It is a stable ingredient that does not degrade easily under normal usage conditions.

Environmental Considerations
As an ethoxylated compound, the production of Cetoleth-20 involves the use of ethylene oxide, which can have an environmental impact if not handled properly. However, the final product is biodegradable and poses no significant environmental risk when used and disposed of correctly.

Regulatory Status
Cetoleth-20 is approved for use in cosmetics by major regulatory authorities such as the European Union and the FDA in the United States. It is commonly found in many skincare, haircare, and makeup formulations.