Shea Butter PEG-12 Dimethicone Esters are derived from the esterification of shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii) with PEG-12 dimethicone. These esters combine the moisturizing and skin-conditioning benefits of shea butter with the silky, spreadable qualities of dimethicone, making them ideal for use in various cosmetic and personal care products.

Chemical Composition and Structure

Shea Butter PEG-12 Dimethicone Esters contain a variety of bioactive compounds that contribute to their beneficial properties:

• Fatty Acids: Including stearic acid, oleic acid, and linoleic acid, which provide moisturizing and skin-conditioning benefits.
• PEG-12 Dimethicone: A silicone-based compound that enhances the smooth, non-greasy texture and improves the spreadability of formulations.
• Vitamins: Such as Vitamin A and Vitamin E, which are beneficial for skin health.
• Phytosterols: Contribute to the anti-inflammatory and healing properties of the esters.
• Triterpenes: Known for their anti-inflammatory and skin-healing properties.

Physical Properties

Shea Butter PEG-12 Dimethicone Esters typically appear as a creamy, white to light yellow substance with a smooth, silky texture. They are soluble in oils and silicones but not in water, making them suitable for various cosmetic formulations such as lotions, creams, and serums. The esters have a mild, characteristic scent of shea butter.

Cosmetic and Personal Care Applications

Emulsifying: Helps to blend oil and water phases in formulations, creating stable emulsions.

Moisturizing: Helps to maintain skin hydration, preventing dryness and promoting softness.

Skin Conditioning: Improves the texture and appearance of the skin, making it smoother and healthier.

Emollient: Provides a smooth and soft feel to the skin, improving its texture and appearance.

Anti-inflammatory: Reduces redness, swelling, and irritation associated with various skin conditions.

Cosmetics INCI Functions

Hair conditioning agent. A large number of ingredients with specific purposes can co-exist in a hair shampoo: cleansers, conditioners, thickeners, mattifying agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, preservatives, special additives. However, the indispensable ingredients are the cleansers and conditioners as they are necessary and sufficient for hair cleansing and manageability. The others act as commercial and non-essential auxiliaries such as: appearance, fragrance, colouring, etc. Hair conditioning agents have the task of increasing shine, manageability and volume, and reducing static electricity, especially after treatments such as colouring, ironing, waving, drying and brushing. They are, in practice, dispersing agents that may contain cationic surfactants, thickeners, emollients, polymers. The typology of hair conditioners includes: intensive conditioners, instant conditioners, thickening conditioners, drying conditioners.

Safety

Dimethicone ((polydimethylsiloxane) is a chemical compound, a high molecular weight polymer derived from silicone, a chemically inert mixture of linear methylated siloxane polymers. The term 'dimeth' denotes two methyl groups bonded to the silicone molecule that provide the formation of dimethicone. It possesses a pronounced viscoelasticity characteristic and is hydrophobic, thus adding shine and slipperiness when applied to hair or skin. It forms a kind of barrier that prevents exogenous substances from entering the stratum corneum and at the same time prevents water loss. It is also UV-resistant, non-greasy and cost-effective. At low concentrations it is considered by the US FDA (Food and Drug Administration) to be a skin protector with a good degree of safety.

It is therefore considered safe when formulated to be non-irritating in cosmetic products as, given its high molecular weight, it is poorly absorbed by the skin or scalp.

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And now let us talk about PEGs.

Since the PEG (Polyethylene glycol) family is very numerous and can be found in cosmetic, industrial, pharmaceutical, medical and other products, we need to make an introductory statement on the subject, which is rather complex from a safety point of view because these products not only come into contact with the skin, but, as in the case of medical products, are ingested.

PEGs (polyethylene glycol) polymerise condensed ethylene oxide and water and are referred to as polyethylene glycols, but are actually complex chemical components, polymers bonded together. For example, plastic is polyethylene and has a hard consistency, while polyethylene combined with glycol forms a liquid. PEGylation is produced not only as etherification, but also as transesterification, which is the transformation of an alcohol by an ester.

The number appearing after the abbreviation PEG represents the molecular weight and the higher this number is, the less it penetrates the skin.