Polyurethane-42 is an inorganic chemical compound, a segmented block copolymer derived from urethane and synthesised from isocyanates.

The name describes the structure of the molecule:

• "Polyurethane" is a term that describes a class of polymers widely used in various applications due to their versatility and desirable properties such as durability, flexibility and abrasion resistance and temperature variations.
• "-42" is a reference to the specific type or grade of polyurethane, which can be characterized by such factors as the types of isocyanates and polyols used, their relative amounts, and the presence of any additives. . This is a designation used to differentiate different molecular structures or variants of the polymer. In cosmetic chemistry, these numbers can help formulators identify specific characteristics or behaviors of a given ingredient, particularly when a chemical family has multiple derivatives or forms.

Significant substances used in the production method:

Di-C12-13 Alkyl Tartrate, Hydrogenated Dilinoleyl Alcohol, isophorone diisocyanate.

Description of the raw materials used in production and their functions.

• Di-C12-13 Alkyl Tartrate. An alkyl tartrate ester that serves as a soft, flexible component within the polyurethane structure.
• Hydrogenated Dilinoleyl Alcohol. An alcohol derived from hydrogenated unsaturated fatty acids. Acts as a diol, providing soft segments to the polymer and contributing to its flexibility.
• Isophorone Diisocyanate. An aliphatic diisocyanate that reacts with diols or polyols to form the polyurethane backbone.

Step-by-step industrial synthesis.

• Preparation. Di-C12-13 Alkyl Tartrate and Hydrogenated Dilinoleyl Alcohol are mixed to form a diol mixture.
• Reaction. Isophorone Diisocyanate is added to the diol mixture, initiating the formation of the polyurethane prepolymer.
• Curing. The mixture is left to cure for a certain period to ensure complete reaction and obtain the desired polymer.

What it is used for and where

Cosmetics

Film-forming agent. It produces a continuous ultra-thin film with an optimal balance of cohesion, adhesion and stickiness on the skin or hair to counteract or limit damage from external phenomena such as chemicals, UV rays and pollution.

CAS: 1184186-26-2

It appears as a white powder or colorless liquid.

Safety

Urethane (also called ethyl carbamate) is a by-product of fermentation and is considered a genotoxic agent.

Polyurethanes are rather complex, inert and biostable materials that are also used in biomedical applications. They are typically synthesised by the reaction of a glycol or polyol with polyisocyanate or diisocyanate. It is known that exposure to isocyanates can cause asthma, contact allergies, conjunctival and skin irritation. However, a study by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel in 2017 found that the rates of harmful residues are not significant for human health.