Brassica Campestris Sterols, derived from the rapeseed plant (Brassica campestris), are fat-soluble compounds naturally found in the seeds of the plant. These sterols, also known as phytosterols, are used in the cosmetic and skincare industry for their emollient and regenerative properties. They help strengthen the skin barrier, reduce transepidermal water loss, and improve skin hydration, while also offering antioxidant and soothing effects.

Chemical Composition and Structure

Brassica Campestris sterols are phytosterols, plant-based molecules similar to cholesterol. Their chemical structures include campesterol, stigmasterol, and beta-sitosterol, among others. These compounds are similar to the natural lipids in the skin, allowing them to integrate easily into the skin barrier, enhancing elasticity and barrier function.

Brassica campestris is a nutritionally rich vegetable and is cultivated all over the world. The phytochemical composition shows interesting compounds for human health such as phenols and ascorbic acid.

Physical Properties

Brassica Campestris sterols can appear as a powder or oily liquid, depending on the extraction method and purity. They are soluble in oils and fats but insoluble in water. Due to their structure, which is similar to skin lipids, they are easily absorbed, leaving the skin soft and nourished without a greasy feel.

Production Process

The sterols are extracted from the seeds of Brassica Campestris through solvent extraction or mechanical methods such as cold pressing. The sterol compounds are then isolated and purified for use in cosmetic formulations.

Brassica campestris sterols, commonly known as plant sterols, are natural compounds extracted from plants in the Brassicaceae family, such as rapeseed and cabbage. These sterols are used in food and cosmetic products for their beneficial properties, including cholesterol reduction and emollient action. Their production involves the following steps:

1. Harvesting the Plants: Brassica campestris plants are harvested from cultivated or wild sources. The part of the plant that contains the highest concentration of sterols is usually the seed.

2. Extraction: The seeds of Brassica campestris are cleaned and subjected to an extraction process. This extraction may occur using organic solvents such as hexane or ethanol to isolate lipids, including sterols, from the seeds.

3. Refining: The obtained lipid extract is refined to remove impurities, phospholipids, and other undesirable compounds. This step is crucial to obtaining pure and concentrated sterols.

4. Separation of Sterols: Sterols are separated from other lipid components using techniques such as chromatography or distillation. This process allows for the isolation of specific sterols, such as campestris sterol.

5. Purification: The produced Brassica campestris sterols are further purified to ensure a high degree of purity and stability. This may include additional washes and filtrations.

6. Quality Control and Packaging: Finally, Brassica campestris sterols undergo quality control checks to verify their purity, efficacy, and compliance with standards. After analysis, they are packaged for distribution and use in food and cosmetic products.

Applications

• Skincare: Used in creams and lotions for their moisturizing, regenerative, and soothing effects, particularly for dry or damaged skin. They help repair the skin barrier and reduce irritation.

• Anti-aging Products: Found in anti-aging treatments due to their ability to improve skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines.

• Hair Care: Incorporated into conditioners and hair masks to nourish and strengthen hair fibers, improving softness and hair resilience.

Cosmetics - INCI Functions:

Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment by restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants.

Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss. Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.

CAS:   90989-79-0

EC number:    292-737-1

Health and Safety Considerations

Safety in Use
Brassica Campestris sterols are considered safe for use in cosmetic products. They are well tolerated by the skin, including sensitive skin, and are not known to cause irritation or sensitization.

Allergic Reactions
Allergic reactions to plant sterols are rare, but they can occur in individuals sensitive to these compounds. It is generally recommended to patch test a product on a small area of skin before use, especially for highly reactive skin.

Toxicity and Carcinogenicity
They are natural ingredients widely used and considered safe by regulatory authorities.

Environmental Considerations
As derivatives from a sustainably cultivated plant, Brassica Campestris sterols are considered eco-friendly. Their production process has minimal environmental impact, especially if eco-friendly extraction techniques are employed.

Regulatory Status
Brassica Campestris sterols are approved for use in cosmetics by major regulatory authorities, including the European Union and the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in the United States.