Treemoss extract (Evernia furfuracea extract) is the synthesised extract obtained from the moss Evernia furfuracea.

Evernia furfuracea  is a species of lichen, a moss that grows at the base and develops on the bark of trees, usually belonging to the Pinaceae family such as firs and pines,  or to the Fagaceae, usually oaks. It grows in China, France, Bulgaria, Greece and Turkey. An extract used in cosmetics is obtained from this lichen.

The extract appears in the form of a white or yellowish-brown powder.

Treemoss extract is an extract obtained by a chemical process.

What it is used for and where

Cosmetics

It is a restricted ingredient III/92 as a Relevant Item in the Annexes of the European Cosmetics Regulation 1223/2009 2003/15/EC. The presence of the substance (Treemoss extract) must be indicated in the list of ingredients referred to in Article 19(1)g when its concentration exceeds:

- 0.001% in leave-on products

- 0.01% in rinse-off products 

As an INCI ingredient, it acts as follows:

Perfuming. Unlike fragrance, which can also contain slightly less pleasant or characteristic odours, the term perfume indicates only very pleasant fragrances.

It is included in cosmetic formulations to impart musk and tree scent.

Production method: maceration in hot or cold water for 3 days, crushing, extraction using isopropanol and cyclohexane, washing, filtration and evaporation of solvents. After this stage, a rough moss product is obtained, which must then be washed with alcohol to remove the waxes, which are insoluble in alcohol. 

In the composition of Evernia furfuracea there are two compounds that have created cases of sensitisation: atranol (2,6-Dihydroxy-4-methyl-benzladehyde) and chloroatranol (3-Chloro -2,6-Dihydroxy-4-methyl-benzladehyde). These two chemical compounds were banned by European Commission Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 on 2 August 2017:

• Molecular Formula    C₉H₉NO₂
• EC Number     289-860-8
• CAS   90028-67-4

The most relevant studies on the subject have been selected with a summary of their contents:

Evernia furfuracea studies