PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate is a chemical compound, a synthetic emulsifier used in skin care products and cosmetics. 

The name describes the structure of the molecule:

• PEG-30 refers to polyethylene glycol with a specific average molecular weight. PEG (Polyethylene glycol) polymerize condensed ethylene oxide and water and are referred to as polyethylene glycols, but they are actually complex chemical components, polymers bonded together. For example, plastic is polyethylene and has a hard consistency, while polyethylene aggregated with glycol forms a liquid. PEGylation is produced not only as heterification but also as transesterification, which is the transformation of an alcohol by an ester. 

The number that appears after the abbreviation PEG represents the molecular weight, and the higher this number is, the less it penetrates the skin.

The term 'eth' refers to the ethoxylation reaction with ethylene oxide after which residues of ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane (1), chemical compounds considered carcinogenic, may remain. The degree of safety therefore depends on the degree of purity of the compound obtained. No manufacturer appears to provide this information on the label, at least as of the date of this review.

• Dipolyhydroxy indicates the presence of multiple hydroxyl (OH) groups in a polymer structure, suggesting enhanced hydration and affinity for water.
• stearate comes from stearic acid, a saturated fatty acid. Stearates are used as emulsifying and conditioning agents, contributing to the formation of a protective barrier on the skin.

Chemical Industrial Synthesis Process

• Reagent selection. The synthesis of PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate begins with the selection of stearic acid, a common fatty acid, and ethylene oxide, used to polymerize the stearic acid.
• Polymerization. Stearic acid is initially treated with ethylene oxide to introduce polyoxyethylene (PEG) groups. The number "30" indicates the approximate number of ethylene oxide units that are added.
• Esterification reaction. The polymerization product is then further esterified to create ester bonds between the stearic acid chains and the PEG groups, forming the desired compound.
• Purification. After the reaction, the product is purified to remove any impurities or by-products. Purification can be accomplished through techniques such as vacuum distillation or filtration.
• Quality control. The final product undergoes rigorous quality checks to verify its chemical composition, purity, and stability, ensuring it meets the required standards for use in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products.

What it is used for and where

PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate is particularly effective at forming water-in-oil emulsions, which help to lock moisture into the skin and provide a rich, smooth texture to products. It is ideal for formulations that require a soft, non-greasy feel on the skin, such as moisturizing creams, lip balms, and makeup products. Additionally, it enhances the stability of emulsions and facilitates the even distribution of active ingredients within the formulation.

Cosmetics - INCI Functions

• Surfactant - Emulsifying agent. Emulsions are thermodynamically unstable and are used to soothe or soften the skin and emulsify, so they need a specific, stabilising ingredient. This ingredient forms a film, lowers the surface tension and makes two immiscible liquids miscible. A very important factor affecting the stability of the emulsion is the amount of the emulsifying agent. Emulsifiers have the property of reducing the oil/water or water/oil interfacial tension, improving the stability of the emulsion and also directly influencing the stability, sensory properties and surface tension of sunscreens by modulating the filmometric performance.

Main uses and benefits of PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate.

Water-in-Oil Emulsion Formation. This ingredient is particularly effective at creating stable water-in-oil emulsions, which are rich and moisturizing, ideal for heavy creams and skincare products.

Product Texture Improvement. It helps achieve a smooth and uniform texture in products, enhancing the sensory experience during use.

Formulation Stability. It contributes to the stability of cosmetic formulations, preventing the separation of ingredients and maintaining product uniformity over time.

Versatile Application. It can be used in a variety of cosmetic products, including skin treatments, lotions, creams, and sun care products.

Skin Compatibility. It is generally well tolerated by the skin and can be used in formulations intended for sensitive skin.

Ease of Use. This emulsifier allows for easy incorporation of oily components into water-based formulations, thus increasing the effectiveness of the product.

References_____________________________________________________________________

(1) Kim MC, Park SY, Kwon SY, Kim YK, Kim YI, Seo YS, Cho SM, Shin EC, Mok JH, Lee YB. Application of Static Headspace GC-MS Method for Selective 1,4-Dioxane Detection in Food Additives. Foods. 2023 Sep 2;12(17):3299. doi: 10.3390/foods12173299.

Abstract. Efficient detection methods must be developed for 1,4-dioxane due to its suspected status as a human carcinogen, which is highly mobile in food and environmental resources. In this regard, this experiment has been conducted to develop reliable and selective detection and measurement methods by using static headspace (SH) isolation, followed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). A new method was developed for determining the spiked 1,4-dioxane contents in a polyethylene glycol 600 (PEG 600). The optimal condition for SH-GC-MS was discussed. The representative ions of 1,4-dioxane and 1,4-dioxane-d8 in the SIM mode of MS are 88 and 96, respectively, and the peaks of the SIM mode were separated and confirmed. The linear range for the method covers 0.25 to 100 mg/L with a coefficient of determination (R2) ≥ 0.999. The method applicability was demonstrated by spike recovery across a variety of food additives (i.e., chlorine bitartrate, choline chloride, polysorbate 20 and 60, and PEG 1000). All spike recovery from the tested samples was in the range of 89.50-102.68% with a precision of 0.44-11.22%. These findings suggest a new analytical method for food safety inspection, and could be applicable for ensuring the safety of foods and environmental and public health on a broad scale.