Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Unsaponifiables is a chemical compound of natural origin, a highly valued ingredient in cosmetic and personal care products. It is derived from the unsaponifiable fraction of shea butter, known for its moisturizing, skin-soothing, and antioxidant properties.

Chemical Composition and Structure

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Unsaponifiables are composed of various bioactive compounds, including sterols (such as stigmasterol, beta-sitosterol), hydrocarbons, vitamins (such as vitamin E), and triterpenes. These compounds are extracted from shea butter during the refining process and are known for their beneficial effects on the skin.

Physical Properties

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Unsaponifiables typically appear as a yellowish to off-white solid or semi-solid at room temperature. It is oil-soluble and can be incorporated into various oil-based and emulsion-based formulations. The ingredient is known for its smooth texture and ability to enhance the stability and efficacy of cosmetic products.

Industrial Production Process

Preparation of reagents. The main raw material is shea butter (Butyrospermum Parkii Butter).

Saponification. The shea butter is heated and treated with an alkaline solution, such as sodium hydroxide (NaOH) or potassium hydroxide (KOH), to initiate the saponification reaction. This process separates the saponifiable components (glycerides) from the unsaponifiables.

Separation of fractions. The resulting mixture is allowed to settle to enable phase separation. The aqueous phase containing soaps is separated from the oily phase containing the unsaponifiable components.

Extraction of unsaponifiables. The oily phase is further processed to isolate the unsaponifiables. This may include the use of solvents to extract the unsaponifiable compounds.

Solvent removal. The solvent used for extraction is removed by vacuum evaporation, leaving behind the shea butter unsaponifiables.

Purification. The unsaponifiables are purified to remove any residual impurities. This may include filtration and further washing with pure solvents.

Drying. The purified unsaponifiables are dried at controlled temperatures to remove residual moisture and obtain a dry product.

Filtration. The solution is filtered to remove any solid impurities.

Grinding. The dried unsaponifiables are ground to obtain a fine and uniform powder.

Classification. The dried powder is classified to ensure a uniform particle size. This step may involve sieving or the use of air classifiers.

Stabilization. The shea butter unsaponifiables are stabilized to ensure their stability during transportation and storage, preventing aggregation and degradation.

Quality control. The shea butter unsaponifiables undergo rigorous quality testing to ensure they meet standards for purity, safety, and functionality. These tests include chemical analysis and spectroscopy.

What it is used for and where

Medical

Butyrospermum Parkii is used as a decongestant in inflammation of the nostrils.

In dermatology, Butyrospermum Parkii extract together with Argania spinosa and a 1% cortisone cream has been used to treat mild to moderate atopic dermatitis (1).

With regard to its components, three new triterpene saponins with antioxidant properties have been isolated from its extract (2).

Cosmetics - INCI Functions

Hair conditioning agent. A significant number of ingredients with specific and targeted purposes may co-exist in hair shampoo formulations: cleansers, conditioners, thickeners, matting agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, preservatives, special additives. However, the indispensable ingredients are the cleansers and conditioners as they are necessary and sufficient for hair cleansing and manageability. The others act as commercial and non-essential auxiliaries such as: appearance, fragrance, colouring, etc. Hair conditioning agents have the task of increasing shine, manageability and volume, and reducing static electricity, especially after treatments such as colouring, ironing, waving, drying and brushing. They are, in practice, dispersants that may contain cationic surfactants, thickeners, emollients, polymers. The typology of hair conditioning agents includes: intensive conditioners, instant conditioners, thickening conditioners, drying conditioners. They can perform their task generally accompanied by other different ingredients.

Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss.  Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.

Industrial Applications

Moisturizing Creams and Lotions: Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Unsaponifiables are widely used in moisturizing creams and lotions. They provide deep hydration and help restore the skin's barrier function, making the skin soft and supple.

Anti-Aging Products: Due to their high content of antioxidants, these unsaponifiables are included in anti-aging formulations. They help protect the skin from oxidative stress and promote a youthful appearance.

Hair Care: In hair care products, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Unsaponifiables are used to condition and protect the hair. They help reduce frizz, improve manageability, and add shine to the hair.

Lip Balms and Treatments: The ingredient is also found in lip balms and treatments, where it helps soothe and hydrate dry, chapped lips, providing a protective barrier against environmental factors.

Sun Care Products: Thanks to their soothing and anti-inflammatory properties, these unsaponifiables are included in sun care products to help protect and repair the skin from sun exposure.

References____________________________________________________________________

(1) Jirabundansuk P, Ophaswongse S, Udompataikul M. Comparative trial of moisturizer containing spent grain wax, Butyrospermum parkii extract, Argania spinosa kernel oil vs. 1% hydrocortisone cream in the treatment of childhood atopic dermatitis. J Med Assoc Thai. 2014 Aug;97(8):820-6. 

Abstract. Objective: To compare an efficacy of a moisturizer containing spent grain wax, Butyrospermum parkii extract, Argania spinosa kernel oil (S) with 1% hydrocortisone cream (HC) for the treatment of mild to moderate atopic dermatitis.....Conclusion: S cream was as effective as HC cream in the treatment and maintenance period of mild to moderate childhood atopic dermatitis.

(2) Tapondjou LA, Nyaa LB, Tane P, Ricciutelli M, Quassinti L, Bramucci M, Lupidi G, Ponou BK, Barboni L. Carbohydr Cytotoxic and antioxidant triterpene saponins from Butyrospermum parkii (Sapotaceae).  Res. 2011 Dec 13;346(17):2699-704. doi: 10.1016/j.carres.2011.09.014.