Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate is a multifunctional ingredient widely used in cosmetic and personal care products for its skin conditioning, emollient, and emulsifying properties. Derived from natural sources, it is known for its ability to improve skin texture and hydration. It’s a pigment dispersant and it’s able to block recrystallization.

Chemical Composition and Structure

Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate is an ester formed from the combination of phytosterols, octyldodecanol, and lauroyl glutamic acid. Phytosterols are plant-derived sterols, while octyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol, and lauroyl glutamic acid is an amino acid derivative. This unique combination provides both hydrophilic and lipophilic properties, making it an effective emulsifier and skin conditioner.

Physical Properties

Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate typically appears as a white to pale yellow powder or waxy solid. It is soluble in oils and dispersible in water, making it suitable for use in a wide range of cosmetic formulations. It provides a smooth, silky texture to products and enhances their spreadability.

Chemical Industrial Synthesis Process

• Preparation of reagents. The main raw materials include phytosterol, octyldodecanol, lauroyl glutamic acid, and activation reagents such as dicyclohexylcarbodiimide (DCC) or N,N'-diisopropylethylamine (DIPEA).
• Ester synthesis. Lauroyl glutamic acid is activated with an activation reagent (e.g., DCC) to form an active intermediate.
• Addition of phytosterol. Phytosterol is added to the active intermediate, and the mixture is heated to a controlled temperature (approximately 60-80°C) under continuous stirring to allow the formation of phytosteryl lauroyl glutamate ester.
• Addition of octyldodecanol. Once the esterification reaction is complete, octyldodecanol is added to the reaction mixture, and the reaction is maintained at a controlled temperature (approximately 60-80°C) to allow the formation of octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate ester.
• Cooling. The reaction mixture is cooled to room temperature.
• Purification. The reaction mixture is purified using extraction and washing techniques with solvents such as ethanol or acetone to remove any impurities and by-products.
• Drying. The purified organic phase is dried using a drying agent such as anhydrous sodium sulfate to remove residual moisture.
• Filtration. The dried solution is filtered to remove any solid impurities.
• Distillation. The final product, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, is further purified by vacuum distillation to obtain a pure product.
• Quality control. The Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate undergoes rigorous quality testing to ensure it meets standards for purity and safety. These tests include chemical analysis and spectroscopy.

What it is used for and where

Anti-irritative: Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate has been shown to mitigate retinol-induced irritation (1) and improve atopic dermatitis (2).

Skin Conditioning: Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate is used in skin care products for its excellent conditioning properties. It helps to improve skin texture, leaving it soft and smooth. It also enhances the skin's natural barrier function, reducing water loss and increasing hydration.

Emollient: As an emollient, this ingredient helps to soften and soothe the skin. It is often included in moisturizers, creams, and lotions to provide long-lasting hydration and improve the overall feel of the product.

Emulsifier: Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate acts as an emulsifying agent, helping to blend water and oil phases in cosmetic formulations. This makes it valuable in creating stable emulsions for creams, lotions, and other skincare products.

Hair Care: In hair care products, it is used to condition and moisturize the hair, making it more manageable and adding shine. It can be found in shampoos, conditioners, and hair treatments.

Sun Care Products: Due to its ability to enhance skin barrier function and improve hydration, it is also used in sun care products to provide additional protection and moisture to the skin.

Safety

Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetic and personal care products. It is non-irritating and suitable for all skin types, including sensitive skin. As a biodegradable ingredient derived from natural sources, it poses minimal risk to the environment when disposed of properly. However, it is important to use it within the recommended guidelines to ensure product safety and efficacy.

References__________________________________________________________________________

(1) Fang Y, Ying Y, Xiaolan W, Lin S, Chenlan X, Caixia W, Dingqiao L, Yanan L. Mitigation of retinol-induced skin irritation by physiologic lipids: Evidence from patch testing. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2024 Apr 16. doi: 10.1111/jocd.16330. 

Abstract. Objective: This study aimed to investigate the efficacy of three potential mitigants: (i) phytosteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate (PLG), (ii) a physiologic lipid mixture (PLM) comprised of ceramide three and cholesterol, and (iii) niacinamide, in ameliorating irritation instigated by retinol....Conclusion: To the best of our knowledge, this study represents the first confirmation that physiologic lipids effectively mitigate retinol-induced irritation. Given their capacity to counter retinol-induced irritation, physiologic lipids, particularly PLG, are recommended for incorporation in retinol regimens. Additionally, the Visia-CR a* value can serve as a robust objective measure for interpreting patch test outcomes. © 2024 The Authors. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology published by Wiley Periodicals LLC.

(2) Takada M, Ishikawa Y, Numano K, Hirano S, Imokawa G. A Nano-Emulsion Containing Ceramide-like Lipo-Amino Acid Cholesteryl Derivatives Improves Skin Symptoms in Patients with Atopic Dermatitis by Ameliorating the Water-Holding Function. Int J Mol Sci. 2022 Nov 1;23(21):13362. doi: 10.3390/ijms232113362. 

Abstract. Because ceramide-like lipo-amino acid cholesteryl derivatives can exert a bound water-holding function due to their lamellae-forming properties, in this study, we determined if topical application of those derivatives to atopic dry skin would elicit an ameliorative effect on skin symptoms, at least on its water-holding function. In this clinical study, daily treatment with a nano-emulsion containing 10% phytosteryl/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamate (POLG) significantly (p < 0.0001) improved skin symptoms, including dryness/scaling, itchiness and stimulus sensations, in the non-lesional skin of patients with atopic dermatitis (AD) at 3 and at 6 weeks compared with week 0. Those significant improvements in skin symptoms were accompanied by a significantly enhanced water content (conductance) and a significant improvement of roughness (SESC) and smoothness (SESM) values measured using a Visioscan at 3 and 6 weeks. Those effects appeared concomitant with a significantly increased corneocyte size, a significantly down-regulated degree of thick abrasions, and a significant impairment of the corneocyte lipid envelope at 6 weeks. Thus, our clinical study suggests, for the first time, that topical application of the POLG nano-emulsion has the distinct potential to ameliorate atopic dry skin symptoms, particularly scaling and itchiness, in the skin of patients with AD. Those effects result from alleviation of the disrupted water-holding function probably due to the increased supply of lamellae structures into the stratum corneum despite the failure to improve barrier function.