Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is a stable, oil-soluble derivative of vitamin C (ascorbic acid) esterified with isopalmitic acid. This compound is valued for its beneficial properties, making it popular in various applications, particularly in the fields of cosmetics and personal care.

Chemical Composition and Structure

The chemical composition of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate includes ascorbic acid esterified with four isopalmitic acid molecules. This structure imparts unique characteristics to the compound, such as enhanced stability and solubility in oils, which allows it to deliver the benefits of vitamin C more effectively in lipid-based formulations.

Physical Properties

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate typically appears as a clear, pale yellow to yellow liquid with an oily consistency. It is insoluble in water but soluble in oils and organic solvents.

Production Process

The production of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate involves several steps:

Sourcing of Raw Materials: Ascorbic acid and isopalmitic acid are selected and prepared for the reaction.

Esterification Reaction: Ascorbic acid is reacted with isopalmitic acid in the presence of a catalyst to form Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate.

Purification: The reaction product is purified to remove any impurities and unreacted components.

Formulation and Packaging: The final product is formulated to achieve the desired consistency and packaged under controlled conditions to ensure stability and purity.

Applications

• Cosmetics: In the cosmetics industry, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is valued for its antioxidant, brightening, and anti-aging properties. It is commonly included in formulations of serums, creams, lotions, and sunscreens to protect against free radical damage, promote collagen production, and improve skin tone (1).
• Personal Care: Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is used in various personal care products such as moisturizers, facial oils, and hair care products for its nourishing and protective properties (2).

Environmental and Safety Considerations

Environmental Impact: The production of Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate generally has a moderate environmental impact. Sustainable sourcing of raw materials and the use of environmentally friendly processes can help minimize the overall impact.

Safety: Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is considered safe for topical use in the concentrations typically employed in consumer products. However, it is essential to ensure that the compound is free from contaminants and complies with regulatory standards. Allergic reactions are rare but cannot be excluded (3).

Cosmetics - INCI Functions

• Antioxidant agent. Ingredient that counteracts oxidative stress and prevents cell damage. Free radicals, pathological inflammatory processes, reactive nitrogen species and reactive oxygen species are responsible for the ageing process and many diseases caused by oxidation.
• Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss.  Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.

Molecular Formula  C₇₀H₁₂₈O₁₀

Molecular Weight  1129.8 g/mol

CAS     183476-82-6    161436-56-2

UNII    47143LT58A

EC Number  430-110-8      917-614-8

Synonyms:

Tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate

Vitamin C tetra-isopalmitate

ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate

References__________________________________________________________________________

(1) Narda M, Brown A, Pérez-Cremades D, García-Giménez JL, Granger C. Melatonin, bakuchiol and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate synergize to modulate gene expression and restore Hypoxia-Inducible Factor 1 signaling in UV-exposed skin. Cell Mol Biol (Noisy-le-grand). 2018 Dec 31;65(8):39-47. 

Abstract. Chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation induces changes to the expression of hundreds of genes in the skin and modulates cellular signaling pathways that alter its structure, function and appearance. To counter these effects, we have developed a 3-in-1 night facial serum (3-in-1 NFS) comprising melatonin, bakuchiol and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate that is designed to attenuate UV-generated free radicals and support new collagen synthesis. In order to better define its mechanism of action and gain insight into how it might influence the biology of photoaged skin, we performed a transcriptomic analysis of ex vivo skin explants that had been exposed to UV light and treated with 3-in-1 NFS each day for 4 consecutive days. Differentially expressed mRNAs and microRNAs (miRNA) were identified by RNA sequencing and a miRNA interactome was developed. Pathway enrichment analysis was performed to identify pathways likely modulated by 3-in-1 NFS. Our analysis revealed that the combination of active ingredients in 3-in-1 NFS exerted a synergistic effect on skin biology and modulated the expression of genes implicated in the regulation of collagen biosynthesis, angiogenesis, skin barrier function and cellular metabolism. Pathway analysis indicated that these events are driven by Hypoxia-Inducible Factor 1α (HIF-1α) whose expression in UV-exposed skin was partially restored upon 3-in-1 NFS treatment. To our knowledge, 3-in-1 NFS is the first non-drug demonstrated to act upon this pathway in the skin.

Goldberg DJ, Robinson DM, Granger C. Clinical evidence of the efficacy and safety of a new 3-in-1 anti-aging topical night serum-in-oil containing melatonin, bakuchiol, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate: 103 females treated from 28 to 84 days. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2019 Jun;18(3):806-814. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12896. 

(2) Maia Campos PM, Gianeti MD, Kanashiro A, Lucisano-Valim YM, Gaspar LR. In vitro antioxidant and in vivo photoprotective effects of an association of bioflavonoids with liposoluble vitamins. Photochem Photobiol. 2006 May-Jun;82(3):683-8. doi: 10.1562/2005-10-14-RA-715. 

Abstract. A new tendency in cosmetic formulations is the association of botanical extracts and vitamins to improve skin conditions by synergic effects. The objective of this study was to determine the antioxidant activity of associated bioflavonoids, retinyl palmitate (RP), tocopheryl acetate (TA) and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate (ATIP), as well as their photoprotective effects in preventing increased erythema, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and sunburn cell formation in hairless mouse skin. The antioxidant activity of solutions containing the association or each substance separately was evaluated in vitro by a chemiluminescence assay. The photoprotective effect was evaluated by means of in vivo tests. Dorsal skin of hairless mice was treated daily by topical applications for 5 days with formulations containing or not containing (vehicle) the flavonoid-vitamins association (5%). The skin was irradiated (UVA/B) 15 minutes after the last application. The results showed that bioflavonoids had in vitro antioxidant properties and also that when they were associated with vitamins their antioxidant activity was more pronounced. On the other hand, erythema and UV damage to the permeability barrier function (TEWL) was not significantly reduced by previous treatment with the flavonoid-vitamin-association formulations, when compared to the irradiated vehicle-treated area. However, the treatment protected the skin from UV damage because it reduced the number of sunburn cells, when compared to the vehicle-treated area. Finally, the association of vitamins and bioflavonoids added to a dermocosmetic formulation showed a relevant biological activity in terms of photoprotection, because the association of bioflavonoids and vitamins acted by different mechanisms, such as antioxidation and absorption of UV radiation, which suggests its use in antiaging and photoprotective products.

(3) Swinnen I, Goossens A. Allergic contact dermatitis caused by ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate. Contact Dermatitis. 2011 Apr;64(4):241-2. doi: 10.1111/j.1600-0536.2011.01875.x. PMID: 21392035.