Shea Butter PEG-8 Esters are derived from the esterification of shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii) with polyethylene glycol (PEG-8). These esters are widely used in the cosmetic and personal care industry for their emulsifying, moisturizing, and skin-conditioning properties.
Chemical Composition and Structure
Shea Butter PEG-8 Esters contain a variety of bioactive compounds that contribute to their beneficial properties:
Fatty Acids: Including stearic acid, oleic acid, and linoleic acid, which provide moisturizing and skin-conditioning benefits.
PEG-8: Enhances the hydrating and emulsifying properties of the esters.
Vitamins: Such as Vitamin A and Vitamin E, which are beneficial for skin health.
Phytosterols: Contribute to the anti-inflammatory and healing properties of the esters.
Triterpenes: Known for their anti-inflammatory and skin-healing properties.
Physical Properties
Shea Butter PEG-8 Esters typically appear as a creamy, white to light yellow substance with a smooth texture. They are soluble in both water and oils, making them suitable for various cosmetic formulations such as lotions, creams, and emulsions. The esters have a mild, characteristic scent of shea butter.
Cosmetic and Personal Care Applications
Emulsifying: Helps to blend oil and water phases in formulations, creating stable emulsions.
Moisturizing: Helps to maintain skin hydration, preventing dryness and promoting softness.
Skin Conditioning: Improves the texture and appearance of the skin, making it smoother and healthier.
Emollient: Provides a smooth and soft feel to the skin, improving its texture and appearance.
Anti-inflammatory: Reduces redness, swelling, and irritation associated with various skin conditions.
Environmental and Safety Considerations
Shea Butter PEG-8 Esters are generally considered safe for use in cosmetic and personal care products when used within recommended concentrations. Sustainable harvesting practices are essential to ensure the preservation of shea trees and their natural habitats. Proper formulation and testing ensure their safety and efficacy in end products.
Cosmetics - INCI Functions
Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss. Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.
Surfactant - Emulsifying agent. Emulsions are thermodynamically unstable and are used to soothe or soften the skin and emulsify, so they need a specific, stabilising ingredient. This ingredient forms a film, lowers the surface tension and makes two immiscible liquids miscible. A very important factor affecting the stability of the emulsion is the amount of the emulsifying agent. Emulsifiers have the property of reducing the oil/water or water/oil interfacial tension, improving the stability of the emulsion and also directly influencing the stability, sensory properties and surface tension of sunscreens by modulating the filmometric performance.
Surfactant - Cleansing agent. Cosmetic products used to cleanse the skin utilise the surface-active action that produces a lowering of the surface tension of the stratum corneum, facilitating the removal of dirt and impurities.
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