Hippophae Rhamnoides Peel Extract, commonly known as sea buckthorn, is a natural extract derived from the peel of Hippophae rhamnoides fruit. Rich in nutrients and powerful antioxidants, this extract is widely used in skincare products for its regenerative, moisturizing, and protective properties. It is known to promote skin health, improve elasticity, and protect against environmental damage, including UV rays.

Chemical Composition and Structure

Hippophae Rhamnoides Peel Extract contains a combination of bioactive compounds, including flavonoids, polyphenols, vitamin C, vitamin E, and carotenoids like beta-carotene and lycopene. These compounds give the extract its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. The fruit peel is particularly rich in essential fatty acids, such as omega-3, omega-6, omega-7, and omega-9, which deeply nourish and hydrate the skin.

Physical Properties

The extract typically comes in a liquid or powder form with an intense orange or yellow color, due to the high carotenoid content. It is soluble in oils and alcohol and can be easily incorporated into cosmetic products like creams, serums, lotions, and masks. Its light texture makes it ideal for quick absorption into the skin without leaving a greasy residue.

Production Process

Hippophae Rhamnoides Peel Extract is obtained through oil-based or supercritical CO₂ extraction methods, which preserve the bioactive compounds present in the fruit peel. These processes ensure that the extract retains its high antioxidant and essential fatty acid content, enhancing its effectiveness in cosmetic formulations.

• Harvesting the Peel: The peel of Hippophae rhamnoides is harvested from ripe fruits of the plant. It is essential to collect the peel sustainably to preserve the quality and biodiversity of the plant.

• Cleaning: After harvesting, the peel is cleaned to remove dirt, residues, and impurities. This step is crucial to ensure that the final extract is of high quality.

• Drying: The cleaned peel is subjected to a drying process to remove moisture. This helps preserve the active properties and facilitates subsequent extraction.

• Extraction: The extraction of active principles occurs using appropriate solvents, such as water, ethanol, or methanol. The dried peel is immersed in the solvent, and the mixture is agitated or heated to promote the release of bioactive compounds.

• Filtration: Once the extraction process is complete, the obtained solution is filtered to remove undissolved solids, resulting in a liquid extract containing the active principles of the peel.

• Concentration: The extract may be further concentrated by evaporating the solvent to obtain a product richer in nutrients and with greater stability.

• Quality Control and Packaging: Finally, Hippophae rhamnoides peel extract undergoes quality control checks to verify its purity, efficacy, and compliance with standards. After analysis, it is packaged for distribution and use in cosmetic products and dietary supplements.

Applications

• Skincare: The extract is used in creams, lotions, and serums for its antioxidant, moisturizing, and regenerative properties. It is particularly beneficial for dry, mature, or sun-damaged skin, helping to reduce signs of aging and improve skin elasticity.

• Anti-aging Products: Due to its high content of vitamins and fatty acids, Hippophae Rhamnoides Peel Extract is ideal for combating the signs of aging by reducing wrinkles and fine lines.

• Protective Products: The extract is also used in sun protection products and to soothe skin after sun exposure, thanks to its soothing and anti-inflammatory properties.

INCI Functions:

Antioxidant agent. Ingredient that counteracts oxidative stress and prevents cell damage. Free radicals, pathological inflammatory processes, reactive nitrogen species and reactive oxygen species are responsible for the ageing process and many diseases caused by oxidation.

Humectant. Hygroscopic compound used to minimise water loss in the skin and to prevent it from drying out by facilitating faster and greater absorption of water into the stratum corneum of the epidermis.  The epidermis is the most superficial of the three layers that make up human skin (epidermis, dermis and hypodermis) and is the layer that maintains hydration in all three layers. In turn, the epidermis is composed of five layers: horny, the most superficial, granular, spinous, shiny, and basal. Humectants have the ability to retain the water they attract from the air in the stratum corneum and have the function of moisturising the skin. They are best used before emollients, which are oil-based.

Skin conditioning agent -  Humectant. Humectants are hygroscopic substances used to minimise water loss in the skin and to prevent it from drying out by facilitating faster and greater absorption of water into the stratum corneum of the epidermis. The epidermis is the most superficial of the three layers that make up the human skin (epidermis, dermis and hypodermis) and is the layer that maintains hydration in all three layers. In turn, the epidermis is composed of five layers: corneum, the most superficial, lucidum, granulosum, spinosum and basale. Humectants have the ability to retain in the stratum corneum the water they attract from the air and have the function of moisturising the skin. It is better to use them before emollients that are oil-based.

Health and Safety Considerations

Safety in Use
Hippophae Rhamnoides Peel Extract is considered safe for use in cosmetics. It is well tolerated by the skin and does not generally pose risks of irritation or sensitization. Regulatory authorities, such as the European Union and the FDA, approve its use in cosmetic products.

Allergic Reactions
Allergic reactions to sea buckthorn peel extract are rare. However, it is recommended to perform a patch test before use, especially on sensitive or reactive skin.

Toxicity and Carcinogenicity
 It is widely used in cosmetic products and supplements and is considered safe for long-term use.

Environmental Considerations
Hippophae Rhamnoides Peel Extract is obtained from renewable and sustainable sources. Sea buckthorn plants are often grown organically, and the extraction process is environmentally friendly. Being biodegradable, the extract does not negatively impact the environment.

Regulatory Status
Hippophae Rhamnoides Peel Extract is approved for use in cosmetic products by major regulatory authorities, including the European Union and the FDA in the United States. It is commonly used in skincare formulations for its regenerative and protective properties.

Sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) Studies

From the leaves and berries of the sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) is extracted chloroform and n-hexane, components with intense antibacterial activity (1).

It is a rich source of vitamins C and E, carotenoids, flavonoids, anthocyanins, organic acids, amino acids, sterols, triterpenols and isoprenols (2) with an antioxidant activity.

The berries produce an oil containing carotenoids, palmitic, palmitolic and oleic acid, while the seed oil is composed of linoleic, linolenic and oleic acid as main components (3) .

This oil has traditionally been used to improve blood circulation and for the treatment of dermatological problems including wounds, gastritis, peptic ulcers, uterine erosion and inflammatory disorders of the genital organs (4).

Sea buckthorn has significant cardioprotective activity and a positive effects on the healing of the cardiovascular system, including inhibition of platelet activation (in particular platelet aggregation), reduction of cholesterol concentration, blood pressure and antioxidant action (5).

In this study, a positive evaluation of the topical effects on atopic lesions as it improved the severity of dermatitis by reducing epidermal thickness (6).

The results of this study on the extract of Sea buckthorn, provide a basis for affordable, low side-effect therapy for the treatment of psoriasis (7).

Cosmetics

It produces a regenerating effect on the skin produced by carotenoids, vitamin E and unsaturated fats contained in the pulp and seeds.

Other applications

It is placed in foods, candies, to give a particular taste.

Sea buckthorn studies

References_______________________________________________________________________

(1) Qadir MI, Abbas K, Younus A, Shaikh RS. Report - Antibacterial activity of sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) against methicillin resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA). Pak J Pharm Sci. 2016 Sep;29(5):1711-1713. 

Abstract. Objective of the present study was to investigate the antibacterial activity of Sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) berries and leaves against methicillin resistant Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA) by using the standard disc diffusion method. Chloroform, n-hexane and aqueous extract of the plant parts were used. Doses of 2mg/ml, 4 mg/ml and 6mg/ml were tested against the microorganism, and the zone of inhibition was compared against the standard drug vancomycin. Results indicated that n-hexane and chloroform extracts of berries and n-hexane extract leaves showed significant (p<0.05) antibacterial activity comparable with vancomycin. It was concluded from the study that extracts berries and leaves of Hippophae rhamnoides have antibacterial activity against MRSA.

(2) Yang B, Kallio H. Supercritical CO2-extracted sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) oils as new food ingredients for cardiovascular health. In: Proceedings of Health Ingredients of Europe, Paris; 2002, p. 17–19.

(3) Süleyman, Z., Erdemoğlu, N., Küsmenoğlu, Ş., Gürbüz, İ., Yesilada, E., and Çalış, İ. Fatty acid composition and anti-ulcerogenic activity of Hippophae rhamnoides fruit oil. J Fac Pharm Gazi Univ. 1998; 15: 11–17

(4) Li, T.S.C. and Wang, L.C.H. Physiological components and health effects of ginseng, echinacea and sea buckthorn. in: G. Mazza (Ed.) Functional foods, biochemical and processing aspects. Technomic Publishing Company, Lancaster, PA; 1998: 329–356

Abstract. Background: Increased consumer´s interest in health has driven the development of foods that offer specific beneficial effects. The list of foods and ingredients includes essential and non-essential nutrients, plant and marine components, whole foods, microorganisms, microalgae and technological approaches. Traditionally, health outcomes focussed on the prevention of chronic diseases but health targets have expanded to cover areas such as brain health, inflammation, eye health, women´s health, healthy ageing and beauty. Objective: This review highlights, from a nutritional biochemistry perspective, differential aspects on designing and interpreting human studies to support the health effects of functional foods. Results: Despite the available evidence from in vitro, animal and observational studies, welldesigned human studies are necessary to support the health effects of functional foods. Intervention trials with foods are complex as they imply limitations due to methodological, food-related and host-related factors. The use of responsive, validated and clinically relevant markers becomes essential even though there is a lack of reliable biomarkers of exposure for many bioactives. Furthermore, the effect of modulating factors such as subclinical inflammation, gut microbiota and genetic variability should be taken into account. Multiple indicators may provide a more reliable alternative to assess physiological processes while emerging biomarkers (microRNAs, epigenetic changes) constitute a promising approach. Additionally, the magnitude of the change is critical to support any health effect although interventions may have a limited clinical impact but be epidemiologically relevant. Also, based on the available data, the premise that bioactivescontaining foods are safe may be questionable. Conclusion: An integrated approach including multiple biomarkers, genetic variability, effect of gut microbiota and risk/benefit assessment should be used to support the potential health effects of functional foods.

(5) Olas B. Sea buckthorn as a source of important bioactive compounds in cardiovascular diseases. Food Chem Toxicol. 2016 Nov;97:199-204. doi: 10.1016/j.fct.2016.09.008. Epub 2016 Sep 9. PMID: 27616182.

(6) Hou DD, Di ZH, Qi RQ, Wang HX, Zheng S, Hong YX, Guo H, Chen HD, Gao XH. Sea Buckthorn (Hippophaë rhamnoides L.) Oil Improves Atopic Dermatitis-Like Skin Lesions via Inhibition of NF-κB and STAT1 Activation. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2017;30(5):268-276. doi: 10.1159/000479528. Epub 2017 Sep 6. PMID: 28873377.

(7) Boca AN, Ilies RF, Saccomanno J, Pop R, Vesa S, Tataru AD, Buzoianu AD. Sea buckthorn extract in the treatment of psoriasis. Exp Ther Med. 2019 Feb;17(2):1020-1023. doi: 10.3892/etm.2018.6983.

Abstract. Psoriasis is one of the most common chronic dermatological conditions, with a strong impact on patients' quality of life. Currently, psoriasis benefits from conventional therapy with a high rate of adverse effects and an increase in non-compliance and self-medication of patients. As such, there is a need to pinpoint low-adverse effects and accessible remedies for this condition. Our single-blind, placebo-controlled study assessed the effect of sea buckthorn extract on psoriasis lesions in previously untreated patients. Our results showed an improvement in Psoriasis Area Severity Index (PASI) scores and in Dermatology Life Quality Index (DLQI) scores when compared to the baseline values, as well as at the 4- and 8-week time marks for the lesions treated with sea buckthorn extract. By contrast, the measurements for the placebo treated lesions showed no alteration at the 4-week mark, and significant worsening at the end of the trial. These findings provide a solid, optimistic base for the in-depth research of sea buckthorn as an adjuvant or a component in psoriasis care protocols.