Camellia Japonica Seed Oil Ethyl Esters is a derivative of Camellia japonica seed oil, converted into ethyl esters to enhance its stability and texture. This ingredient is valued for its emollient and moisturizing properties, offering a silky, lightweight feel on the skin. It is particularly suitable for cosmetic formulations requiring an emollient effect without heaviness.

Chemical Composition and Structure

The esters consist mainly of ethyl esterified fatty acids, including oleic and linoleic acids. Conversion into ethyl esters reduces the oil’s viscosity and increases its oxidative stability, making it ideal for lightweight, fast-absorbing formulations.

Physical Properties

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil Ethyl Esters appears as a clear, light liquid, oil-soluble, and easily incorporated into serums, lotions, and creams. Its silky, non-greasy texture makes it suitable for products needing a light touch and even distribution on the skin.

Production Process

The esters are produced through an esterification process, involving the reaction of Camellia japonica seed oil with ethanol. This process converts the fatty acids into ethyl esters, enhancing the oil’s stability and texture for cosmetic use.

Applications

• Medical: Known for its emollient and hydrating properties, with potential applications in treatments for dry and dehydrated skin.

• Cosmetics: Camellia Japonica Seed Oil Ethyl Esters is widely used in skincare products for its hydrating and smoothing qualities. It is ideal in serums, light creams, and makeup products due to its light texture and quick absorption.

INCI Functions:

Skin conditioning agent - Emollient. Emollients have the characteristic of enhancing the skin barrier through a source of exogenous lipids that adhere to the skin, improving barrier properties by filling gaps in intercorneocyte clusters to improve hydration while protecting against inflammation. In practice, they have the ability to create a barrier that prevents transepidermal water loss.  Emollients are described as degreasing or refreshing additives that improve the lipid content of the upper layers of the skin by preventing degreasing and drying of the skin. The problem with emollients is that many have a strong lipophilic character and are identified as occlusive ingredients; they are oily and fatty materials that remain on the skin surface and reduce transepidermal water loss. In cosmetics, emollients and moisturisers are often considered synonymous with humectants and occlusives.

Skin protectant. It creates a protective barrier on the skin to defend it from harmful substances, irritants, allergens, pathogens that can cause various inflammatory conditions. These products can also improve the natural skin barrier and in most cases more than one is needed to achieve an effective result.

Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.

• Industry: In the cosmetic industry, it is valued for providing a silky, even touch, used in advanced formulations requiring a non-greasy effect.

Environmental and Safety Considerations
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil Ethyl Esters is considered safe for cosmetic use and is biodegradable. Being derived from a sustainable plant source, it has minimal environmental impact, especially when Camellia japonica seeds are responsibly sourced.

For further information and studies:

Camellia japonica