Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Powder è una polvere ottenuta dalla macinazione delle foglie essiccate di Arctostaphylos uva-ursi (uva ursina). Grazie alle sue proprietà astringenti, antiossidanti e schiarenti, è ampiamente utilizzata nei cosmetici e nei trattamenti naturali per la cura della pelle. La polvere è una forma versatile dell'estratto, adatta per preparazioni fai-da-te, maschere e prodotti cosmetici in polvere.

Composizione chimica e struttura

1. Arbutina:

   • Composto chiave che regola la produzione di melanina, riducendo l'iperpigmentazione e uniformando il tono della pelle.

2. Tannini:

   • Polifenoli con proprietà astringenti, che aiutano a restringere i pori e ridurre la produzione di sebo.

3. Flavonoidi:

   • Molecole antiossidanti come quercetina e miricetina, che proteggono la pelle dallo stress ossidativo e favoriscono la rigenerazione cellulare.

4. Acido Ursolico:

   • Un triterpenoide con azioni antinfiammatorie e antimicrobiche, che supporta la rigenerazione e l’elasticità cutanea.

Proprietà fisico-chimiche

• Aspetto: Polvere fine di colore verde oliva o marrone chiaro.
• Odore: Erbaceo, leggermente terroso.
• Solubilità: Insolubile in acqua; utilizzabile come sospensione o mescolata in preparazioni oleose.
• Stabilità: Stabile se conservata in un luogo fresco e asciutto, lontano da luce diretta e umidità.

Processo di produzione

1. Raccolta: Le foglie vengono raccolte da piante mature di Arctostaphylos uva-ursi, coltivate in aree temperate.
2. Essiccazione: Le foglie fresche sono essiccate naturalmente o tramite essiccatori controllati per preservare i principi attivi.
3. Macinazione: Le foglie essiccate sono ridotte in una polvere fine utilizzando tecniche di macinazione avanzate per ottenere una granulometria uniforme.

Applicazioni

Medicina

• Utilizzata tradizionalmente per trattamenti naturali legati a infezioni del tratto urinario.
• Applicata localmente per ridurre infiammazioni e favorire la guarigione delle lesioni cutanee.

Cosmetici

• Cura della pelle:

  • Mescolata in maschere per il viso per purificare, schiarire e tonificare la pelle.
  • Utilizzata in scrub e esfolianti per migliorare la texture della pelle e favorire il ricambio cellulare.

• Anti-età:

  • Integrata in polveri cosmetiche per combattere i radicali liberi e migliorare l'elasticità cutanea.

• Purificante:

  • Adatta per maschere a base di argilla per pelli grasse o acneiche, grazie alle sue proprietà astringenti.

CAS   84776-10-3    EC number   283-934-3

Industriale

• Utilizzata nelle formulazioni naturali e biologiche, in prodotti in polvere per la cura della pelle o come ingrediente attivo nei cosmetici eco-friendly.

Considerazioni ambientali e di sicurezza

• Sostenibilità:

  • Raccolta da piante coltivate in modo responsabile per preservare l’ambiente e ridurre l’impatto sull’ecosistema.

• Biodegradabilità:

  • Completamente biodegradabile e compatibile con formulazioni naturali.

• Profilo di sicurezza:

  • Sicura per uso topico; tuttavia, in caso di pelle sensibile o reattiva, si consiglia di effettuare un test preliminare.

Conclusione

Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Powder è una forma naturale, versatile e potente dell'uva ursina, ideale per trattamenti cosmetici fai-da-te e formulazioni avanzate. Le sue proprietà schiarenti, antiossidanti e astringenti la rendono un ingrediente chiave per prodotti destinati alla cura della pelle e alle routine di bellezza naturali.

Proprietà chiave

• Principi attivi: Arbutina, tannini, flavonoidi, acido ursolico.
• INCI Functions: Schiarente, Astringente, Antiossidante, Esfoliante.
• Vantaggi: Uniforma il tono della pelle, purifica e migliora la texture cutanea, supporta trattamenti anti-età.

Bibliografia__________________________________________________________________________

Dell'Annunziata F, Cometa S, Della Marca R, Busto F, Folliero V, Franci G, Galdiero M, De Giglio E, De Filippis A. In Vitro Antibacterial and Anti-Inflammatory Activity of Arctostaphylos uva-ursi Leaf Extract against Cutibacterium acnes. Pharmaceutics. 2022 Sep 15;14(9):1952. doi: 10.3390/pharmaceutics14091952.

Abstract. Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes) is the main causative agent of acne vulgaris. The study aims to evaluate the antimicrobial activity of a natural product, Arctostaphylos uva-ursi leaf extract, against C. acnes. Preliminary chemical-physical characterization of the extract was carried out by means of FT-IR, TGA and XPS analyses. Skin permeation kinetics of the extract conveyed by a toning lotion was studied in vitro by Franz diffusion cell, monitoring the permeated arbutin (as the target component of the extract) and the total phenols by HPLC and UV-visible spectrophotometry, respectively. Antimicrobial activity and time-killing assays were performed to evaluate the effects of Arctostaphylos uva-ursi leaf extract against planktonic C. acnes. The influence of different Arctostaphylos uva-ursi leaf extract concentrations on the biofilm biomass inhibition and degradation was evaluated by the crystal violet (CV) method. The 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyl tetrazolium bromide (MTT) test was used to determine the viability of immortalized human keratinocytes (HaCaT) after exposure to Arctostaphylos uva-ursi leaf extract for 24 and 48 h. Levels of interleukin (IL)-1β, IL-6, IL-8 and tumour necrosis factor (TNF)-α were quantified after HaCaT cells cotreatment with Arctostaphylos uva-ursi leaf extract and heat-killed C. acnes. The minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) which exerted a bacteriostatic action on 90% of planktonic C. acnes (MIC90) was 0.6 mg/mL. Furthermore, MIC and sub-MIC concentrations influenced the biofilm formation phases, recording a percentage of inhibition that exceeded 50 and 40% at 0.6 and 0.3 mg/mL. Arctostaphylos uva-ursi leaf extract disrupted biofilm biomass of 57 and 45% at the same concentrations mentioned above. Active Arctostaphylos uva-ursi leaf extract doses did not affect the viability of HaCaT cells. On the other hand, at 1.25 and 0.6 mg/mL, complete inhibition of the secretion of pro-inflammatory cytokines was recorded. Taken together, these results indicate that Arctostaphylos uva-ursi leaf extract could represent a natural product to counter the virulence of C. acnes, representing a new alternative therapeutic option for the treatment of acne vulgaris.

Sugier P, Sęczyk Ł, Sugier D, Krawczyk R, Wójcik M, Czarnecka J, Okoń S, Plak A. Chemical Characteristics and Antioxidant Activity of Arctostaphylos uva-ursi L. Spreng. at the Southern Border of the Geographical Range of the Species in Europe. Molecules. 2021 Dec 20;26(24):7692. doi: 10.3390/molecules26247692.

Abstract. The bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi L. Spreng.) is a source of herbal material-bearberry leaf (Uvae ursi folium), which is highly valued and sought by pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. For many years, leaves of this plant have been used in traditional medicine as a diuretic, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory agent for various diseases of the urogenital tract. The bearberry has also been proposed as a natural antioxidant additive due to the high contents of phenolic compounds in its leaves. The study was focused on characterization of the basic phytochemical composition and antioxidant activity of extracts derived from bearberry leaves collected from plants located at the southern border of the geographical range of the species in Europe. The investigated herbal material is characterized by a different chemical profile compared to the chemical profiles of bearberry found in other parts of the continent. Bearberry extracts from plants growing in two different habitat types-heathlands and pine forests showed a wide range of variation, especially in the concentration of hyperoside, corilagin, and methylartutin and the total flavonoid contents. In addition to arbutin, bearberry can be a valuable source of phenolic compounds, which are mainly responsible for the antioxidant properties of extracts. The high content of phenols and high values of antioxidant parameters indicate a high potential of bearberry leaves to be used as a powerful natural source of antioxidants in herbal preparations. Therefore, the A. uva-ursi populations can be a source of plant material for pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and food industries.

Asensio E, Vitales D, Pérez I, Peralba L, Viruel J, Montaner C, Vallès J, Garnatje T, Sales E. Phenolic Compounds Content and Genetic Diversity at Population Level across the Natural Distribution Range of Bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi, Ericaceae) in the Iberian Peninsula. Plants (Basel). 2020 Sep 22;9(9):1250. doi: 10.3390/plants9091250.

Abstract. Bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi) is a medicinal plant traditionally employed for the treatment of urinary tract infections due to high contents of arbutin (hydroquinone β-D-glucoside), which is now mainly used as a natural skin-whitening agent in cosmetics. Bearberry has also been proposed as a natural antioxidant additive due to the high contents of phenolic compounds in leaves. We studied the variation on phenolic compounds in 42 wild populations of bearberry, aiming to elucidate if intrinsic biological, climatic, and/or geographic factors affect phenolic contents across its natural distribution in the Iberian Peninsula. Bearberry leaves were collected during autumn over a three-year period (2014-2016) in populations across a latitude and altitude gradient. Methanolic extracts showed a wide range of variation in total phenols content, and different phenolic profiles regarding arbutin (levels of this major constituent varied from 87 to 232 mg/g dr wt), but also catechin and myricetin contents, which were affected by geographic and climatic factors. Moderate levels of variation on genome size-assessed by flow cytometry-and on two plastid DNA regions were also detected among populations. Genetic and cytogenetic differentiation of populations was weakly but significantly associated to phytochemical diversity. Elite bearberry genotypes with higher antioxidant capacity were subsequently identified.

Kravchenko G, Krasilnikova O, Raal A, Mazen M, Chaika N, Kireyev I, Grytsyk A, Koshovyi O. Arctostaphylos uva-ursi L. leaves extract and its modified cysteine preparation for the management of insulin resistance: chemical analysis and bioactivity. Nat Prod Bioprospect. 2022 Aug 12;12(1):30. doi: 10.1007/s13659-022-00352-1. PMID: 35953755; PMCID: PMC9372252.