No problems of skin irritation were found with Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate (1). On the contrary, a higher enzyme activity was found after the application of SLES (which, on the other hand, has been shown to attenuate the trypsin enzyme when applied even in low concentrations and alone) together with Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate (2).

References______________________________________________________________________

(1) Corazza M, Lauriola MM, Bianchi A, Zappaterra M, Virgili A. Irritant and sensitizing potential of eight surfactants commonly used in skin cleansers: an evaluation of 105 patients. Dermatitis. 2010 Sep-Oct;21(5):262-8.

Abstract Background: Irritation from surfactants contained in detergents is a frequent adverse reaction to cosmetics. Sensitization to surfactants is also possible. In the literature, comparative studies about irritant and sensitizing potential of different surfactants are heterogeneous and inconclusive about the best molecules to use....Results: None of the eight surfactants in our series gave positive allergic reactions. Only cocamidopropyl betaine from the Italian standard (Società Italiana di Dermatologia Allergologica, Professionale e Ambientale [SIDAPA]) series gave five positive reactions among 105 patients. None of the eight studied surfactants induced skin irritation. The most tolerated are two new mild anionics (sodium cocoyl glutamate and sodium lauroyl oat amino acids) and an amphoteric agent (disodium cocoamphodiacetate).  Conclusion: From this study, we deduce that cosmetic companies' efforts to search for and market new products with very mild surfactants have been generally successful.

(2) Schepky AG, Holtzmann U, Siegner R, Zirpins S, Schmucker R, Wenck H, Wittern KP, Biel SS. Influence of cleansing on stratum corneum tryptic enzyme in human skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2004 Oct;26(5):245-53. doi: 10.1111/j.1467-2494.2004.00232.x. 

Abstract Desquamation in human skin is a well-balanced process of de novo production of corneocytes and their shedding from the skin surface. The proteolysis of corneodesmosomes is an important step in the final desquamation process. In the degradation of these adhesion molecules, the stratum corneum tryptic enzyme (SCTE) plays a key role. In initial studies with extracts of porcine epidermis, SCTE was shown to be inactivated by low concentrations of sodium lauryl ether sulphate (SLES). These in vitro findings were supported by in situ results obtained by measuring the release of fluorescent dyes coupled to trypsin-specific substrates incubated on human skin cross-sections. Moreover, in further studies, it could be demonstrated that the SCTE activity in the human horny layer decreases after in vivo application of cleansing products containing SLES. After repeated washing of human volunteers with tap water, a standard market cleansing product (SLES/betaine system) or a new improved cleansing product (SLES/betaine/disodium cocoyl glutamate system), the specific SCTE activity was determined in extracts from the uppermost layers of the stratum corneum. It could be shown that after application of the new formula the remaining SCTE activity was significantly higher than after use of the standard market formula. This ex vivo approach has proven to be very helpful for measuring surfactant effects on human skin enzymes. Using this assay, we developed an improved shower gel formula, which leads to a significantly higher skin enzyme activity after application, compared to a standard market formula.

Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate is a chemical compound, disodium salt of L-glutamic acid. It is produced industrially from vegetable sources such as oils and sugar.

The name describes the structure of the molecule:

• Disodium indicates that there are two sodium ions in the compound, which are negatively charged and help to increase the solubility of the compound in water.
• Cocoyl is derived from "coconut oil", indicating that the compound is derived from fatty acids found in coconut oil. The "coco" of the molecule is a fatty acid radical (R-CO-), where R represents a long chain of carbon and hydrogen atoms.
• Glutamate refers to glutamic acid, an amino acid, from which this part of the molecule is derived. In this compound, the amino group of glutamic acid was replaced by the coconut group, forming an amide bond. The "Glutamate" part of the name indicates that the compound is a salt or an ester of glutamic acid.

The synthesis process takes place in several stages:

• Extraction of oil from coconuts.
• Hydrolysis. Coconut oil undergoes a process called hydrolysis, where it is broken down into its fatty acids and glycerol components.
• Fermentation. Fatty acids are fermented with specific types of bacteria to produce glutamic acid.
• Neutralization. Glutamic acid is neutralized with sodium hydroxide to form sodium glutamate.
• Esterification. Sodium glutamate is then reacted with coconut fatty acids in a process called esterification to form coconut glutamate.
• Neutralization. Finally, coconut glutamate is neutralized with sodium hydroxide to form Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate.

It occurs as a colourless or yellowish liquid.

What it is used for and where

Cosmetics

Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate is a surfactant, an anionic cleaning agent with a foaming agent function. It is used in cleansing gels, shampoos and other body care products. 

Surfactant - Cleansing agent. Cosmetic products used to cleanse the skin utilise the surface-active action that produces a lowering of the surface tension of the stratum corneum, facilitating the removal of dirt and impurities. 

Cleansing agent. Ingredient that cleanses skin without exploiting the surface-active properties that produce a lowering of the surface tension of the stratum corneum. 

The dosage as main surfactant is normally 8.0%-15.0%, as auxiliary surfactant 1.0%-6.0%.

This study evaluated the degreasing effect and skin tolerability of a botanical facial cleanser with hops and willow bark extract and Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate glutamate as a mild cleansing agent compared to a standard facial cleanser with sodium laureth sulfate (SLES). Unlike the SLES-containing cleanser, the botanical skin cleanser with hops and willow bark extract had a continuous degreasing effect without reactive seborrhea after the treatment break. SLES-free skin cleansing might be beneficial for sensitive skin (1).

Other uses

Oral products with dosage 1.0-3.0%

Commercial Applications

Cosmetic Industry. Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate is a mild surfactant derived from coconut fatty acids and glutamic acid. It is known for its cleansing and foaming properties.

Skin Cleansing Products. Used in cleansers, liquid soaps, and facial cleaning products due to its soothing and moisturizing properties, making it suitable even for sensitive skins.

Hair Care Products. Found in shampoos and conditioners where it acts as a conditioning agent, aiding in gently cleansing hair and scalp.

The most relevant studies on the subject have been selected with a summary of their contents:

Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate studies

Typical optimal commercial product characteristics Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate

• Molecular Formula  C₅H₇NNa₂O₄
• Molecular Weight     191.09
• Exact Mass    196.088821
• CAS    68187-30-4 
• UNII    MBK0CP8F5A
• EC Number   269-085-1
• DSSTox Substance ID     DTXSID9020906
• IUPAC  disodium;(2S)-2-aminopentanedioate
• InChI=1S/C5H9NO4.2Na/c6-3(5(9)10)1-2-4(7)8;;/h3H,1-2,6H2,(H,7,8)(H,9,10);;/q;2*+1/p-2/t3-;;/m0../s1 
• InChl Key     PXEDJBXQKAGXNJ-QTNFYWBSSA-L
• SMILES   C(CC(=O)[O-])C(C(=O)[O-])N.[Na+].[Na+]
• MDL number  
• PubChem Substance ID    
• FEMA    2756
• ChEBI  91250

Synonyms : 

• l-Glutamic acid, N-coco acyl
• Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate

References_________________________________________________________________________

(1) Weber N, Schwabe K, Schempp CM, Wölfle U. Effect of a botanical cleansing lotion on skin sebum and erythema of the face: A randomized controlled blinded half-side comparison. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2019 Jun;18(3):821-826. doi: 10.1111/jocd.12680.