Compendium of the most significant studies with reference to properties, intake, effects.

Ferreira MS, Sousa Lobo JM, Almeida IF. Sensitive skin: Active ingredients on the spotlight. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2021 Nov 23. doi: 10.1111/ics.12754.

Abstract.  This study aimed to unveil the most used active ingredients for sensitive skin in facial care products from the pharmacy and parapharmacy channel.

Khmaladze I, Österlund C, Smiljanic S, Hrapovic N, Lafon-Kolb V, Amini N, Xi L, Fabre S. A novel multifunctional skin care formulation with a unique blend of antipollution, brightening and antiaging active complexes. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2020 Jun;19(6):1415-1425. doi: 10.1111/jocd.13176.

Abstract. To develop a unique formula with active complexes, having multifunctional effects for anti-pollution, brightening and anti-aging/barrier strengthening purposes with confirmed activities in vitro and ex vivo skin models, suitable for polluted skin.

Resende DISP, Ferreira MS, Sousa-Lobo JM, Sousa E, Almeida IF. Usage of Synthetic Peptides in Cosmetics for Sensitive Skin. Pharmaceuticals (Basel). 2021 Jul 21;14(8):702. doi: 10.3390/ph14080702.

Abstract. This study aimed to analyze the composition of 88 facial cosmetics for sensitive skin from multinational brands regarding usage of peptides, reviewing their synthetic pathways and the scientific evidence that supports their efficacy.

Sulzberger M, Worthmann AC, Holtzmann U, Buck B, Jung KA, Schoelermann AM, Rippke F, Stäb F, Wenck H, Neufang G, Grönniger E. Effective treatment for sensitive skin: 4-t-butylcyclohexanol and licochalcone A. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2016 Feb;30 Suppl 1:9-17. doi: 10.1111/jdv.13529.

Abstract. The objective of this study was to develop an active ingredient concept for the treatment of sensitive skin.

Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester (peptide N-acetyl-L-tyrosyl-L-arginine hexadecyl ester) is a chemical compound, a bioactive dipeptide peptide Tyr-Arg is produced industrially by the esterification of L-arginine with palmitol.

The name defines the structure of the molecule

• "Acetyl" indicates the presence of an acetyl group (-COCH3) attached to the molecule. This group is derived from acetic acid.
• "Dipeptide-1" indicates a molecule made up of two amino acids linked together. A dipeptide is a class of peptides, and the "1" might refer to a specific sequence or type of dipeptide.
• "Cetyl ester" indicates the presence of an ester derived from cetyl alcohol. Cetyl alcohol has a chain of 16 carbon atoms, and the ester forms when an acid reacts with cetyl alcohol.

Description of the raw materials used in its production

• Dipeptide-1 - A peptide molecule made up of two amino acids joined by a peptide bond.
• Acetyl Group - An acetyl moiety derived from acetic acid.
• Cetyl Alcohol (or 1-Hexadecanol) - A fatty alcohol used for esterification.

Industrial chemical synthesis of Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, step by step:

• Preparation - Dipeptide-1 is prepared through a peptide synthesis reaction between the desired two amino acids.
• Acetylation - The amino terminal group of dipeptide-1 is acetylated through a reaction with an acetylating agent.
• Esterification - The acetylated dipeptide is subsequently subjected to an esterification reaction with cetyl alcohol to form the cetyl ester.
• Purification - The resulting molecule is purified using techniques such as chromatography to remove impurities and by-products.

It occurs as a fine white powder, insoluble in water.

What it is used for and where

Cosmetics

Functions. Hair conditioner, skin conditioner, anti-wrinkle agent

Hair conditioning agent. A significant number of ingredients with specific and targeted purposes may co-exist in hair shampoo formulations: cleansers, conditioners, thickeners, matting agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, preservatives, special additives. However, the indispensable ingredients are the cleansers and conditioners as they are necessary and sufficient for hair cleansing and manageability. The others act as commercial and non-essential auxiliaries such as: appearance, fragrance, colouring, etc. Hair conditioning agents have the task of increasing shine, manageability and volume, and reducing static electricity, especially after treatments such as colouring, ironing, waving, drying and brushing. They are, in practice, dispersants that may contain cationic surfactants, thickeners, emollients, polymers. The typology of hair conditioning agents includes: intensive conditioners, instant conditioners, thickening conditioners, drying conditioners. They can perform their task generally accompanied by other different ingredients.

Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.

It is one of the most widely used ingredients in cosmetic products for people who cannot tolerate aggressive ingredients because they have "sensitive skin", "reactive skin" or "intolerant skin" (1).

Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester relieves the burning sensation and inflammation resulting from exposure of the skin to heat, contact with specific substances such as capsaicin, and mechanical stress (2). In a study comparing the efficacy of two cosmetic products aimed at alleviating skin sensitivity (4-t-butylcyclohexanol in Eucerin® UltraSensitive Soothing Care Dry Skin and Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester in La Roche-Posay Toleriane® Ultra Intense Soothing Care), both products were found to alleviate the burning sensation, but Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester demonstrated a faster soothing effect (3).

A viable alternative to Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester for those who suffer from sensitive skin and have burning or itching sensations on the skin proved, albeit only in in vitro tests, to be the chemical compound 4-t-butylcyclohexanol tested in a 2016 study by M Sulzberger and other private researchers at Beiersdorf in Hamburg, a company that markets cosmetic products including the well-known Nivea (4).

Commercial applications 

Soothing Effect. This dipeptide is known for its calming and anti-irritating properties, making it ideal for products meant for sensitive or irritated skin.

Anti-aging Products. Due to its firming and smoothing properties, it can be found in anti-aging creams and serums.

Skin Products. Used in lotions, creams, and serums to enhance skin texture and reduce the feeling of skin tightness.

Soothing Products. Ideal for post-sun exposure or post-hair removal products for its ability to calm and soothe the skin.

Cosmetics. Can be incorporated into cosmetic products to provide additional skin benefits and enhance the overall feel of the product.

The most relevant studies on this chemical compound have been selected with a summary of their contents:

Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester studies

Typical optimal commercial product characteristics Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester

• Molecular Formula  C₃₃H₅₇N₅O₅
• Molecular Weight     603.8
• Exact Mass   603.43600
• CAS  196604-48-5
• UNII    3M7W78X5IR
• EC Number   
• DSSTox Substance ID  DTXSID00173329
• IUPAC  hexadecyl (2S)-2-[[(2S)-2-acetamido-3-(4-hydroxyphenyl)propanoyl]amino]-5-(diaminomethylideneamino)pentanoate
• InChI=1S/C33H57N5O5/c1-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10-11-12-13-14-15-16-24-43-32(42)29(18-17-23-36-33(34)35)38-31(41)30(37-26(2)39)25-27-19-21-28(40)22-20-27/h19-22,29-30,40H,3-18,23-25H2,1-2H3,(H,37,39)(H,38,41)(H4,34,35,36)/t29-,30-/m0/s1  
• InChl Key      JFHZXDZUXGBFAQ-KYJUHHDHSA-N
• SMILES CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)C(CCCN=C(N)N)NC(=O)C(CC1=CC=C(C=C1)O)NC(=O)C
• MDL number  
• PubChem Substance ID    
• ChEBI  
• ICSC    
• NSC   
• RTECS   
• UN   
• NCI   

Synonyms:

• acetyl tyrosylarginine cetyl ester
• Hexadecyl (2s)-2-[[(2s)-2-acetamido-3-(4-hydroxyphenyl)propanoyl]amino]-5-(diaminomethylideneamino)pentanoate
• Sensicalmine

References_______________________________________________________________________

(1) Ferreira MS, Sousa Lobo JM, Almeida IF. Sensitive skin: Active ingredients on the spotlight. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2021 Nov 23. doi: 10.1111/ics.12754. 

(2) Resende DISP, Ferreira MS, Sousa-Lobo JM, Sousa E, Almeida IF. Usage of Synthetic Peptides in Cosmetics for Sensitive Skin. Pharmaceuticals (Basel). 2021 Jul 21;14(8):702. doi: 10.3390/ph14080702.

(3) Schoelermann AM, Jung KA, Buck B, Grönniger E, Conzelmann S. Comparison of skin calming effects of cosmetic products containing 4-t-butylcyclohexanol or acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester on capsaicin-induced facial stinging in volunteers with sensitive skin. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2016 Feb;30 Suppl 1:18-20. doi: 10.1111/jdv.13530.

(4) Sulzberger M, Worthmann AC, Holtzmann U, Buck B, Jung KA, Schoelermann AM, Rippke F, Stäb F, Wenck H, Neufang G, Grönniger E. Effective treatment for sensitive skin: 4-t-butylcyclohexanol and licochalcone A. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2016 Feb;30 Suppl 1:9-17. doi: 10.1111/jdv.13529.