REVIEW CAUDALIE Sérum Liftant Fermeté 30 ml

Ingredients

aqua/water/eau, butylene glycol, glycerin, hexyldecanol, hexyldecyl laurate, squalane, tocopheryl acetate, palmitoyl grapevine shoot extract, c20-22 alkyl phosphate, c20-22 alcohols, potassium cetyl phosphate, polyacrylate crosspolymer-6, caprylyl glycol, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, sodium dehydroacetate, hyaluronic acid, adenosine, sodium hydroxide, acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, sodium phytate, khaya senegalensis bark extract, maltodextrin, paeonia lactiflora root extract, parfum (fragrance), linalool, limonene, coumarin*.(251/031)

Manufacturer's indications:

Anti-wrinkle, all skin types. Resveratrol + H.A. + Vegan Collagen Booster 2 times more effective than Retinol on collagen production.

Let's look at all 28 ingredients in order of quantity as indicated on the label. Here is a brief summary for space reasons. For the full text, studies and bibliography, just click on the ingredient and, if you want to delve deeper, it's perhaps a little complex reading because these are scientific studies, but it clarifies the ingredient/health relationship.

Butylene glycol Used as a solvent to improve the dispersion capacity of cosmetic films consisting of copolymers and when glycerine, a difficultly soluble ingredient, is present.

Glycerin.  In detergents, shampoos and other cosmetic products it is included in the formula with the aim of moisturising and softening the skin, protecting it from ageing or roughness.

Hexyldecanol   Dispersant and incorporated into fragrances as a blending agent.

Hexyldecyl laurate  Emollient and stabiliser, improves the cream's spreadability.

Squalane  A very stable emollient and moisturising agent that has a remarkable ability to penetrate and impart flexibility to human skin and increase the absorption of other active substances.

Tocopheryl acetate  A synthetic, modified, hydrolysed form of vitamin E. Acts as a humectant and effective in skin regeneration.

Palmitoyl grapevine shoot extract   The resveratrol contained in Palmitoyl grapevine shoot extract may have an effective effect against hyperpigmentation. Human skin is subject to oxidative stress caused by various factors such as a polluted environment, detergents containing harmful chemical compounds, ultraviolet radiation, etc. Resveratrol has demonstrated anti-oxidative properties and moderate activity against hyperpigmentation. Therefore, some cosmetic companies include it in the formula of anti-ageing and skin care products either as a component alone or in the form of plant extracts containing it, as in the case of Palmitoyl grapevine shoot extract.

c20-22 alkyl phosphate Anionic emulsifier and dispersant at low concentrations, effectively replaces film-forming polymers and has no preservatives.

c20-22 alcohols  Emulsifier and viscosity stabiliser.

Potassium cetyl phosphate  Complicated ingredient acting as an emulsifier and cleaning agent.

Polyacrylate Crosspolimer-6  is often included in cosmetic formulations to protect or repair the skin as a thickening polymer that provides gel formation.

Caprylyl glycol  An antimicrobial preservative.

Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer  has a very long name, but it has a simple function: thickener

Hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is a polysaccharide belonging to the class of glycosaminoglycans, involved in tissue repair and regeneration processes. Its most well-known application is as an anti-aging agent, to reduce wrinkles and signs of ageing. In this product we find it, in this position on the label, hydrolysed (in simple terms, more soluble) and we also find it in the fourth-to-last position on the label, in its most natural form.

Sodium Dehydroacetate  antibacterial preservative.

Adenosine is considered a new, safe and effective cosmetic ingredient to improve wrinkles, dermal density, elasticity and skin hydration.

Sodium hydroxide Caustic soda inserted in small quantities is a detergent that dissolves oils and greases and is considered a safe ingredient.

Acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester  It is one of the most widely used ingredients in cosmetic products for people who cannot tolerate aggressive ingredients because they have 'sensitive skin', 'reactive skin' or 'intolerant skin'. 

Sodium Phytate, a chelating product that helps keep a cosmetic product stable and, as an antioxidant, has the function of preserving the product from deterioration due to moulds, fungi, etc.

Khaya senegalensis bark extract   African mahogany extract is included in cosmetic products as an antioxidant and antimicrobial. In 2016, a patent filed in France claims that this extract can maintain or increase collagen expression and other benefits for the skin.

Maltodextrin   in cosmetics, an excellent antioxidant.

Paeonia lactiflora root extract   Peony root has been used for centuries in traditional Chinese medicine to treat pain, inflammation and immune disorders and its petals have a fair amount of flavonoids known to exert antioxidant and anti-inflammatory actions. A number of glycosides are extracted from the dried root that have properties to improve pain, joint swelling, synovial hypertrophy, bone erosion and cartilage degradation in arthritis. It is a very interesting plant from a cosmetic point of view.

Parfum (Fragrance). is a generic term for a fragrance and is used in cosmetic products to indicate fragrance and aromatic compounds and their raw materials; it could be a natural product, but unless specified, it is of chemical origin.  No manufacturer declares which chemical compound is behind the cryptonym "Parfum".

Linalool   It is a chemical intermediate. Fragrance included in toothpastes, sunscreens, lipsticks, deodorants, lip balms. It is a component considered safe if not oxidised.

Limonene  an excellent flavouring agent often unfairly blamed for its allergenicity in cosmetic products, but this is more due to oxidation than to the component itself.

Coumarin is a flavouring agent and serves to impart taste or fragrance.

Conclusions

Excellent product with high quality ingredients aimed at achieving the purpose stated on the label for this cream: anti-wrinkle for all skin types. As we have seen, looking at all the ingredients, there are many innovative components and some old acquaintances, but the result, depending on the skin type, should be achieved. In this type of creams, the "subjective factor" must always be taken into account, the one that could play against, namely the type of epidermis. The only ingredient which, in the opinion of scientific literature, is not advisable, is the cryptic Parfum, but it is at the bottom of the list of ingredients on the label, so it carries little weight. Creams should be reviewed and can also be recommended, but the deciding factor for one cream or another is the test on one's own skin.