Sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed wheat protein is a chemical compound, a polymer produced by the condensation, with forced hydrolysis, of wheat gluten and cocoyl chloride obtained from protein fatty acids derived from coconut or palm.
The name defines the structure of the molecule:
- Sodium (Na). Sodium is an alkaline metal, a group of highly reactive elements found in group 1 of the periodic table. Sodium is soft and silvery-white in color. It is highly reactive, especially with water, and is commonly found in salts and minerals. In baking soda it makes up 27.37% of the mass.
- Cocoyl refers to a group derived from coconut oil that is rich in fatty acids and is often used in cosmetics and personal care products for its moisturizing properties.
- Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein refers to the wheat protein that has undergone hydrolysis, a chemical reaction in which a molecule is broken down into smaller parts by the addition of water. Hydrolyzed wheat protein is often used in hair care products for its ability to improve the hair’s ability to retain moisture, add volume, reduce porosity and improve smoothness.
The synthesis process takes place in several stages:
- Extraction. Wheat proteins are extracted from wheat germ by grinding the wheat germ and then using a solvent, such as water or alcohol, to extract the protein.
- Hydrolysis. Extracted wheat proteins are hydrolyzed by breaking down proteins into smaller peptides and amino acids by using enzymes or heating the protein in the presence of an acid or base.
- Second Extraction. Coconut oil is extracted from the coconut pulp by drying the coconut pulp and using a mechanical press to extract the oil.
- Conversion. Coconut oil is converted into a coconut derivative by reacting coconut oil with a strong base, such as sodium hydroxide, to form a soap-like compound known as "coconut ester".
Reaction. The coconut derivative is reacted with the hydrolyzed wheat protein. This process takes place in a controlled environment, such as a reaction vessel, and may involve the use of a catalyst to accelerate the reaction.
Purification. Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein is purified to remove unreacted materials and by-products with a series of washing, filtration and drying steps.
It appears as a clear amber-coloured liquid.
What it is used for and where
Cosmetics
Although chemically produced, this compound contains natural products such as coconut or palm oil and wheat proteins that allow the gel to be evenly distributed on the body or hair, but it also contains chemical preservatives and the chemical propylene glycol, as we shall see later. Generally used in cosmetics as a non-ionic surfactant, skin and hair conditioning agent and antistatic agent.
Antistatic agent. Static electricity build-up has a direct influence on products and causes electrostatic adsorption. The antistatic ingredient reduces static build-up and surface resistivity on the surface of the skin and hair.
Hair conditioning agent. A significant number of ingredients with specific and targeted purposes may co-exist in hair shampoo formulations: cleansers, conditioners, thickeners, matting agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, preservatives, special additives. However, the indispensable ingredients are the cleansers and conditioners as they are necessary and sufficient for hair cleansing and manageability. The others act as commercial and non-essential auxiliaries such as: appearance, fragrance, colouring, etc. Hair conditioning agents have the task of increasing shine, manageability and volume, and reducing static electricity, especially after treatments such as colouring, ironing, waving, drying and brushing. They are, in practice, dispersants that may contain cationic surfactants, thickeners, emollients, polymers. The typology of hair conditioning agents includes: intensive conditioners, instant conditioners, thickening conditioners, drying conditioners. They can perform their task generally accompanied by other different ingredients.
Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.
Surfactant - Cleansing agent. Cosmetic products used to cleanse the skin utilise the surface-active action that produces a lowering of the surface tension of the stratum corneum, facilitating the removal of dirt and impurities.
Strange history of this chemical compound
2017
In the composition of Sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed wheat protein it is called:
GLUADIN® WK (1), produced by BASF of Germany, the following ingredients are used:
CASR-No. Ingredient
68188-38-5 Sodium coco-hydrolyzed animal protein
122-99-6 2-phenoxyethanol
99-76-3 Methylparaben powder
120-47-8 Ethylparaben
So a product of natural origin, but containing 3 chemical preservatives that certainly do their job, but about whose safety the scientific literature poses warnings.
Another Sodium cocoyl hydrolysed wheat protein by the name of PROTELAN VE/K (2) is composed of an aqueous solution of approximately 28% aqueous solution of acylated wheat protein hydrolysate with cocoyl chloride.
The product is preserved with 1% of a mixture containing:
- 2-Phenoxyethanol: 73% - 77%
- Methylparaben: 10.5% - 14.5%
- Propylparaben: 10.5% - 14.5%
The same chemical preservatives as the previous product.
Typical characteristics of a commercial product Sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed wheat protein
Appearance | Amber liquid |
Viscosity 20°C | max. 900 mPas |
pH | 7,00 - 9,00 |
Sodium Chloride
| ≤3.5% |
Nitrogen | ≥1.7% |
Aerobic Count
| ≤10% |
Heavy Metals (Fe) | <10ppm |
As | <2ppm |
Pb | <1ppm |
Cd | <2ppm |
Hg | <2ppm |
Cr | <2ppm |
Ni | <1ppm |
2018
PROTELAN VE/K has been replaced by PROTELAN VE/K NP (3), which includes the inclusion of vegetable propylene glycol instead of synthetic propylene glycol. The updated composition is:
- Sodium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein: 10% - 25%
- Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate 5% - 10%
- Aqua: to 100%
I do not know the data sheet so I will ask the manufacturer if the preservatives are the same.
References________________________________________________________________________
(1) Gluadin WK.rtf (cospha.ro)
(2) Untitled (zenstore.it)
(3) PROTELAN_VE_K_NP_nuova_versione_modifica_INCI_07_06.18.pdf (acef.it)