Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Water is a compound of natural origin derived from the distillation of the leaves of the Hamamelis virginiana tree belonging to the Hamamelidaceae family.

The name describes the structure of the molecule:

• Hamamelis is the scientific name for a genus of plants commonly known as witch hazel. These plants are valued for their astringent and soothing properties.
• Virginiana indicates that the species comes from Virginia or, more broadly, from the eastern United States. This term is used to describe species native to this region.
• Leaf water or "hydrosol" is the water that remains after distilling leaves to extract essential oils. This water contains many of the water-soluble substances of the plant and has therapeutic properties similar, though milder, than the essential oil.

Industrial Production Process

• Leaf collection. Hamamelis Virginiana leaves are harvested, preferably in the fall, when the content of active ingredients such as tannins and flavonoids is most concentrated.
• Distillation. The leaves, whether fresh or dried, are loaded into a distillation apparatus. Water is added and heated to generate steam. The steam passes through the plant material, extracting volatile and aromatic compounds.
• Condensation. The steam, laden with active compounds, is cooled in a condenser, turning it back into a liquid that is a mixture of water and the essential oils from the leaves.
• Separation. Essential oils, which tend to float on the surface of the water, are separated from the floral water by decantation or other separation techniques.
• Filtration. The floral water may be further filtered to remove impurities and residual particles, ensuring the purity and clarity of the final product.
• Quality control. Each batchr undergoes quality testing to ensure the presence of active compounds, microbiological purity, and the absence of contaminants.

What it is used for and where

Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Water is rich in tannins and other phenolic compounds, which provide excellent astringent and anti-inflammatory properties. It is commonly used in skin care products to reduce redness, soothe irritation, and tighten pores. Witch hazel extract is also a popular ingredient in toners, lotions, and other products targeted at oily or acne-prone skin, thanks to its ability to cleanse and refresh the skin without overly drying it.

Cosmetics - INCI Functions

• Cosmetic astringent. This ingredient exerts a direct effect on the skin by tightening dilated pores by contracting stratum corneum cells and removing superfluous oil.
• Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.

CAS    84696-19-5

EC number    283-637-9

Main uses and benefits of Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Water

Astringent Properties. Thanks to its high tannin content, witch hazel water extract has strong astringent properties that help minimize the appearance of pores and tone the skin.

Anti-inflammatory and Soothing Effects. It is known for its ability to soothe irritated and inflamed skin, making it ideal for treating sunburns, insect bites, and other skin irritations (1).

Sebum Production Control. Witch hazel extract can help regulate sebum production, useful for oily skin care and preventing acne.

Antioxidant. Contains antioxidants that help protect the skin from damage caused by free radicals and premature aging (2) (3).

Soothes Skin Post-Shaving. Often used in aftershave products, it helps reduce redness and calm the skin after shaving.

Versatile Application. It can be incorporated into a variety of skincare products, including toners, cleansers, serums, creams, and lotions.

References_____________________________________________________________________

(1) Piazza S, Martinelli G, Vrhovsek U, Masuero D, Fumagalli M, Magnavacca A, Pozzoli C, Canilli L, Terno M, Angarano M, Dell'Agli M, Sangiovanni E. Anti-Inflammatory and Anti-Acne Effects of Hamamelis virginiana Bark in Human Keratinocytes. Antioxidants (Basel). 2022 Jun 5;11(6):1119. doi: 10.3390/antiox11061119. 

Abstract. Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes) is recognized as one of the main triggers of the cutaneous inflammatory response in acne vulgaris, a chronic skin disorder with a multifactorial origin. Witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana L.) is a plant widely used for skin inflammatory conditions, with some preliminary anti-inflammatory evidence on the skin, but lacking data on acne conditions. This study aimed to evaluate the effect of a glycolic extract from Hamamelis virginiana bark (HVE) versus C. acnes-induced inflammation in human keratinocytes (HaCaT). Phytochemical investigations of HVE identified hamamelitannin (HT) and proanthocyanidins as the most abundant compounds (respectively, 0.29% and 0.30% w/wextract). HVE inhibited C. acnes-induced IL-6 release (IC50: 136.90 μg/mL), by partially impairing NF-κB activation; however, no antibacterial or antibiofilm activities were found. In addition, HVE showed greater anti-inflammatory activity when TNF-α was used as a proinflammatory stimulus (IC50 of 38.93 μg/mL for IL-8 release), partially acting by antioxidant mechanisms, as shown for VEGF inhibition. The effects of HVE are primarily based on the proanthocyanidin content, as HT was found inactive on all the parameters tested. These results suggest further investigations of HVE in other inflammatory-based skin diseases.

(2) Touriño S, Lizárraga D, Carreras A, Lorenzo S, Ugartondo V, Mitjans M, Vinardell MP, Juliá L, Cascante M, Torres JL. Highly galloylated tannin fractions from witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) bark: electron transfer capacity, in vitro antioxidant activity, and effects on skin-related cells. Chem Res Toxicol. 2008 Mar;21(3):696-704. doi: 10.1021/tx700425n. 

Abstract. Witch hazel ( Hammamelis virginiana) bark is a rich source of both condensed and hydrolizable oligomeric tannins. From a polyphenolic extract soluble in both ethyl acetate and water, we have generated fractions rich in pyrogallol-containing polyphenols (proanthocyanidins, gallotannins, and gallates). The mixtures were highly active as free radical scavengers against ABTS, DPPH (hydrogen donation and electron transfer), and HNTTM (electron transfer). They were also able to reduce the newly introduced TNPTM radical, meaning that they included some highly reactive components. Witch hazel phenolics protected red blood cells from free radical-induced hemolysis and were mildly cytotoxic to 3T3 fibroblasts and HaCat keratinocytes. They also inhibited the proliferation of tumoral SK-Mel 28 melanoma cells at lower concentrations than grape and pine procyanidins. The high content in pyrogallol moieties may be behind the effect of witch hazel phenolics on skin cells. Because the most cytotoxic and antiproliferative mixtures were also the most efficient as electron transfer agents, we hypothesize that the final putative antioxidant effect of polyphenols may be in part attributed to the stimulation of defense systems by mild prooxidant challenges provided by reactive oxygen species generated through redox cycling.

(3) Amêndola I, Viegas DJ, Freitas ET, Oliveira JR, Santos JGD, Oliveira FE, Lagareiro Netto AA, Marcucci MC, Oliveira LD, Back-Brito GN. Hamamelis virginiana L. extract presents antimicrobial and antibiofilm effects, absence of cytotoxicity, anti-inflammatory action, and potential to fight infections through the nitric oxide production by macrophages. An Acad Bras Cienc. 2024 Feb 12;96(1):e20200031. doi: 10.1590/0001-3765202320200031. PMID: 38359287.

Abstract. The potential of H. virginiana L. was evaluated against Candida spp. (C. albicans, C. dubliniensis, C. glabrata, C. guilliermondii, C. krusei, and C. tropicalis) and bacteria (Acinetobacter baumannii, Escherichia coli, Enterococcus faecalis, Klebsiella pneumoniae, Staphylococcus aureus, and Streptococcus mutans). Effect on murine macrophages (RAW 264.7) was also evaluated with respect to cytotoxicity and production of cytokines (IL-1β and TNF-α) and nitric oxide (NO). The most effective concentrations of the extract were determined by microdilution broth. These concentrations were analyzed on biofilms, after 5 min or 24 h exposure. Cytotoxicity was performed by MTT assay and quantification of cytokines and NO by ELISA and Griess reagent, respectively. The extract acted against the planktonic forms and provided significant reductions of all the microbial biofilms; besides, showed no cytotoxic effect, except at 100 mg/mL, after 24 h exposure. There was cytokine production; however, a modulatory effect was observed in groups exposed to lipopolysaccharide (LPS) from E. coli. NO production was similar or higher than the control group. Thus, H. virginiana L. extract showed antimicrobial and antibiofilm effects; absence of cytotoxicity for RAW 264.7; anti-inflammatory action; and potential to fight infections through the NO production.