E920 (L-cysteine)

L-cysteine is an optically active L-form of cysteine. It is obtained industrially from animal products (keratin), but can also be obtained by hydrolysing human hair.

Cysteine is the α-mercaptomethyl (α-thiomethyl)-substituted amino acid of proteins. It is an α-amino acid.

Amino acids play a key metabolic function in the human body and are constituents of proteins.

As food additives they perform different functions: preservatives, flavour enhancers, food supplements and more.

Amino acids together with their salts are used in cosmetics as conditioning agents for both hair and skin (e.g. as moisturisers and other similar functions). Moisturisers are different in nature: the best are the natural ones that exploit the mechanism of integration between the ingredient and the skin by moisturising the horny hydrolipid film, i.e. the thin protective layer that covers the epidermis protecting it from harmful external microbes, keeping the skin moisturised and supple and its pH or acidity value between 4 and 6. Then there are the occlusive moisturisers, usually derived from petroleum (Paraffinum, Paraffinum liquidum and others), but also triglycerides, lanolin oil, natural or synthetic waxes, fatty acid esters and others that create an artificial occlusive layer on the stratum corneum of the skin with the advantage of accelerating the protective process but with the disadvantage of preventing the skin's natural transpiration.

α-amino acids that have similar physical structures undergo similar changes with regard to solubility in water/ethanol mixtures, and technologies to separate α-amino acids from industrial residues, which may not even be innocuous, are constantly being improved. However, many data on the solubility in water-ethanol and ethanol of some α-amino acids are contradictory or even lacking, and the effects of ethanol on the solubility of amino acids may be different. Overall, the scientific literature considers that α-amino acids do not pose significant problems for human health when taken orally, except in people with certain genetic diseases.

Food

Ingredient listed in the European food additives list as E920 as an anti-caking agent.

Food safety: amino acid α generally considered safe.

Cosmetics

Antioxidant agent. Ingredient that counteracts oxidative stress and prevents cell damage. Free radicals, pathological inflammatory processes, reactive nitrogen species and reactive oxygen species are responsible for the ageing process and many diseases caused by oxidation.

Antistatic agent. Static electricity build-up has a direct influence on products and causes electrostatic adsorption. The antistatic ingredient reduces static build-up and surface resistivity on the surface of the skin and hair.

Fragrance. It plays a decisive and important role in the formulation of cosmetic products as it provides the possibility of enhancing, masking or adding fragrance to the final product, increasing its marketability.  The consumer always expects to find a pleasant or distinctive scent in a cosmetic product.

Hair conditioning agent. A significant number of ingredients with specific and targeted purposes may co-exist in hair shampoo formulations: cleansers, conditioners, thickeners, matting agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, preservatives, special additives. However, the indispensable ingredients are the cleansers and conditioners as they are necessary and sufficient for hair cleansing and manageability. The others act as commercial and non-essential auxiliaries such as: appearance, fragrance, colouring, etc. Hair conditioning agents have the task of increasing shine, manageability and volume, and reducing static electricity, especially after treatments such as colouring, ironing, waving, drying and brushing. They are, in practice, dispersants that may contain cationic surfactants, thickeners, emollients, polymers. The typology of hair conditioning agents includes: intensive conditioners, instant conditioners, thickening conditioners, drying conditioners. They can perform their task generally accompanied by other different ingredients.

Waving and straightening agent for hair. It is an ingredient that enables straightening and/or waving by permanently changing the shape or configuration of the keratinous hair fibres.

Reducing agent. Ingredient that facilitates permanent hair waving by adjusting the pH to an optimal level.

Cosmetic safety: amino acid α generally considered safe when formulated to be non-irritant.

CAS: 52-90-4  3374-22-9 

EC number: 200-158-2   222-160-2