Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax Is an ester composed of beeswax and glycerol.
The name describes the structure of the molecule
- "Polyglyceryl" denotes a polymer derived from glycerol, a simple compound commonly used in cosmetics for its moisturizing properties.
- "3" denotes the degree of polymerization: three units of glycerol in the compound.
- "Beeswax" is a natural wax produced by bees that is widely used in cosmetics for its emollient properties and to form a protective barrier on the skin.
Description of raw materials used in production
- Beeswax - A natural substance secreted by bees.
- Polyglycerin-3 - A polymer of glycerin, produced by the polymerization of glycerin.
Step-by-step summary of industrial chemical synthesis process
- Preparation - The beeswax is purified and readied for the reaction.
- Esterification - The beeswax is reacted with polyglycerin-3 through an esterification reaction to form the ester, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax.
- Purification - The produced ester is purified to remove impurities or unreacted reactants.
- Cooling and Solidification - The product is cooled and solidified.
It appears as a wax or yellow liquid.
What it is for and where
Cosmetics
Emulsifying agent. Emulsions are thermodynamically unstable. Emulsifiers have the property to reduce the oil/water or water/oil interfacial tension, improve emulsion stability and also directly influence the stability, sensory properties and surface tension of sunscreens by modulating their filmometric performance.
Commercial applications
Cosmetics and Skincare. Used as an emulsifying agent, it helps stabilize formulations and enhance the texture of products.
Lip Care Products. Used in lip balms and lipsticks for its emollient properties and to enhance the longevity of the product on the lips.
Hair Care Products. Can be found in conditioners and hair treatments for its conditioning properties.
Creams and Lotions. Added to formulations for its ability to moisturize the skin and form a protective barrier.
References__________________________________________________________________________
Fiume, Monice M., et al. Safety Assessment of Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters as Used in Cosmetics. International journal of toxicology 42.2_suppl (2023): 5S-101S.
Abstract. The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of 274 polyglyceryl fatty acid esters. Each of the esters in this group is a polyether comprising 2 to 20 glyceryl residues, end-capped by esterification with simple carboxylic acids, such as fatty acids. Most of these ingredients are reported to function in cosmetics as skin-conditioning agents and/or surfactants. The Panel reviewed the available data and considered conclusions from their relevant previous reports, and determined that these ingredients are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment when formulated to be non-irritating.
Felippim, E. C., Marcato, P. D., & Maia Campos, P. M. B. G. (2020). Development of photoprotective formulations containing nanostructured lipid carriers: sun protection factor, physical-mechanical and sensorial properties. AAPS PharmSciTech, 21, 1-14.
Abstract. The effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation emitted by the sun are cumulative and can result in chemical changes such as the generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), leading to the regular use of sunscreen. As an alternative, the use of antioxidants, such as quercetin, into sunscreen can control these effects and provide additional skin photoprotection. However, quercetin presents low stability and poor permeation, alternatively, the encapsulation in nanoparticles can improve the stability and skin permeation. Thus, this study aimed to develop photoprotective formulations containing nanoencapsulated quercetin, characterize the physical-mechanical and sensorial properties, and evaluate the influence of nanocarriers on sun protection factor (SPF) and the immediate clinical effects. Sunscreen formulations with or without antioxidants in a free form or loaded in nanostructured lipid carriers (NLCs) were developed. After the stability, rheological behavior, texture profile, and in vivo SPF (sun protector factor) evaluation, sixty female participants, aged between 20 and 35 years, were enclosed to evaluate the sensorial properties and immediate clinical effects of the formulation in the skin hydration using biophysical and skin imaging techniques. The correlation of rheological behavior, texture profile, and sensory properties enabled the correct choice of formulation ingredients. In addition, the use of NLCs with quercetin significantly improved the SPF in vivo of the developed photoprotective formulation, without increasing the amount of UV filters. Finally, the association of NLCs in the photoprotective formulation showed synergistic effects in the SPF and an improvement in the skin barrier function and hydration.
Woodruff, J. (2018). IMPROVING STABILITY. Soap Perfumery & Cosmetics, 91(1), 34-37.