Chondrus Crispus Extract, also known as sea moss extract or carrageenan, is derived from the red algae Chondrus crispus, commonly found in the North Atlantic coastal waters. This natural ingredient is valued in cosmetic and skincare products for its moisturizing, emollient, and antioxidant properties. Chondrus Crispus Extract is rich in polysaccharides, minerals like iodine, vitamins, and antioxidants, contributing to its numerous beneficial properties for the skin.

Industrial Production Process

The production of Chondrus Crispus extract, also known as sea moss or carrageenan, an ingredient valued in cosmetics for its moisturizing, antioxidant, and soothing properties, follows an extraction process aimed at preserving the active ingredients contained in this red algae. 

• Harvesting. Chondrus Crispus is harvested from coastal areas, preferably in clean and unpolluted zones. After harvesting, the algae are washed with seawater to remove sand and impurities and then dried in the sun or controlled dryers.
• Extraction. The Chondrus Crispus extract is obtained by immersing the dried algae in hot water or aqueous solutions of other solvents to extract soluble compounds, such as polysaccharides, minerals, and antioxidants. The extraction process can vary in terms of temperature and time, depending on the specific method used.
• Filtration. The extractive solution is filtered to remove solid algae residues. The filtered solution can then be concentrated under vacuum or through evaporation to reduce the solvent volume and increase the concentration of active ingredients.
• Purification. If necessary, a purification process follows to remove impurities and optimize the extract's quality. This can include steps like chromatography or selective precipitation.
• Quality Control. The final Chondrus Crispus extract undergoes rigorous quality control tests to confirm the presence and concentration of active ingredients, as well as to ensure the absence of contaminants. Testing methods can include chromatographic analyses, spectroscopic analyses, and microbiological tests.

Form and Color. Chondrus Crispus Extract, is a fine powder ranging in color from white to light yellow, water-soluble.

What it is for and where

Cosmetics - INCI Functions

Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.

Viscosity control agent. It controls and adapts, Increasing or decreasing, viscosity to the required level for optimal chemical and physical stability of the product and dosage in gels, suspensions, emulsions, solutions. 

CAS   244023-79-8

Found in creams, lotions, facial masks, and body products, Chondrus Crispus Extract is valued for its ability to improve skin texture and appearance.

In hair care products, this peptide can help promote hair growth and prevent loss (1).

References_____________________________________________________________________

(1) Carlos, R. M. D., & Sarruf, F. D. (2023). Comparative study of the effectiveness of intradermotherapy associated or not with microneedling and topical solution in reducing hair loss in men with androgenetic alopecia. Surgical & Cosmetic Dermatology, 15, e20230197.

Abstract. Introduction: Androgenetic alopecia impacts patients psychologically. Androgenetic alopecia is an androgen-dependent condition characterized by hair follicles miniaturization, shortened anagen phase, and prolonged telogen phase. The increasing search for hair therapies to improve this condition leads to the need for robust methods to compare the effectiveness of treatments, such as standardized photographs and clinical evaluation.  Objective: This study comparatively assessed the efficacy of intradermotherapy associated or not with microneedling and application of sterile topical solution whose active components are Octapeptide-2, Copper tripeptide-1, Chondrus crispus extract, and Silanediol salicylate. ...Conclusion: The therapeutic association of intradermotherapy with microneedling followed by topic treatment was significantly more effective in improving male hair loss compared to control.

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Carrageenan is a natural, high molecular weight, highly sulphated linear polysaccharide extracted from the edible red algae Rhodophycea and the hydrophilic colloid Kappaphycus alvarezii. It is also extracted from Irish moss Chondrus crispus and Gigartina stellata. The basic unit of carrageenan is D-galactose and 3,6-anhydro-D-galactose. Refined sulphated carrageenan has recently been introduced commercially.

Industrially, it appears in the form of a white to yellowish water-soluble, odourless powder.

What it is used for and where

Mainly used as an emulsifying, stabilising, gelling, film-forming ingredient in foods, cosmetics and parapharmaceuticals.

Medical

Phytochemical analysis of carrageenan has shown the presence of alkaloids, saponins, steroids, gums, mucilages and carbohydrates in both native and commercial carrageenan with antioxidant activities (1).

Food

In European food additives it is labelled with the number E407 as a thickener. Used as a stabiliser, gelling agent, binder and thickener in processed meat and poultry products. It improves the freeze-thaw ratio, stability, flavour and cuttability in poultry products. 

Carrageenan has the property of maintaining the organoleptic and structural values of fat-free cheese and can replace casein in cheese imitations and stabilise the structure in cheese-like products (2).

Lightening agent in beverages. Incorporated into confectionery products such as gummy sweets, ice cream and food jelly it can replace agar, pectin and gelatine.

Safety

A rather debated ingredient in recent years, to date it seems to be considered safe by toxicology studies and chronic toxicological tests (3).

References_______________________________________________________________

(1) Suganya AM, Sanjivkumar M, Chandran MN, Palavesam A, Immanuel G. Pharmacological importance of sulphated polysaccharide carrageenan from red seaweed Kappaphycus alvarezii in comparison with commercial carrageenan. Biomed Pharmacother. 2016 Dec;84:1300-1312.

(2) Błaszak BB, Gozdecka G, Shyichuk A. Carrageenan as a functional additive in the production of cheese and cheese-like products. Acta Sci Pol Technol Aliment. 2018 Apr-Jun;17(2):107-116. doi: 10.17306/J.AFS.0550.

(3) David S, Shani Levi C, Fahoum L, Ungar Y, Meyron-Holtz EG, Shpigelman A, Lesmes U. Revisiting the carrageenan controversy: do we really understand the digestive fate and safety of carrageenan in our foods? Food Funct. 2018 Mar 1;9(3):1344-1352. doi: 10.1039/c7fo01721a.

Tobacman JK. Review of harmful gastrointestinal effects of carrageenan in animal experiments. Environ Health Perspect. 2001 Oct;109(10):983-94. doi: 10.1289/ehp.01109983.