Polyglyceryl-3 cocoate is an emulsifier and surfactant derived from coconut oil and polyglycerol. This ingredient is used in various formulations to enhance texture, stability, and the sensory experience of products.

Chemical Composition and Structure

Polyglyceryl-3 cocoate is composed of coconut oil fatty acids esterified with polyglycerol (specifically, polyglycerol-3). The structure features a glycerol backbone with multiple glycerol units linked by ester bonds to the fatty acids from coconut oil. This ester structure contributes to the emulsifying and surfactant properties, allowing it to stabilize both oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsions.

Physical Properties

Polyglyceryl-3 cocoate typically appears as a clear to slightly yellow liquid or a soft solid, depending on its formulation and concentration. It has a mild, neutral odor and is soluble in oil, with the ability to emulsify in water. This ingredient imparts a smooth, silky texture to formulations and is known for its gentle, non-irritating nature.

Production Process 

The production of polyglyceryl-3 cocoate involves several key steps:

• Synthesis Coconut oil fatty acids are reacted with polyglycerol in a controlled chemical process. This reaction usually occurs with the help of a catalyst under specific conditions of temperature and pressure to form ester bonds between the fatty acids and the polyglycerol.
• Purification The reaction mixture is then purified to remove any residual reactants, catalysts, and by-products. Purification methods may include filtration, washing, and other techniques to ensure a high-purity final product.
• Formulation The purified polyglyceryl-3 cocoate is incorporated into various formulations. It may be mixed with other ingredients to create emulsions, creams, lotions, and other cosmetic or pharmaceutical products.
• Quality Control The final product undergoes quality control testing to ensure it meets safety, efficacy, and performance standards. This includes checks for consistency, stability, and compatibility with other ingredients.
• Storage The product is stored in airtight containers, protected from light, moisture, and heat, to maintain its stability and effectiveness.

Applications 

Medical Polyglyceryl-3 cocoate may be used in pharmaceutical formulations as an emulsifier to enhance the stability and delivery of active ingredients. It is also used in topical treatments to improve skin feel and moisturizing properties.

Cosmetics In cosmetic formulations, polyglyceryl-3 cocoate is valued for its emulsifying and skin-conditioning properties. It is commonly used in creams, lotions, and serums to stabilize emulsions, provide a smooth application, and improve skin texture.

Others This ingredient can be incorporated into various personal care products, including cleansers, sunscreens, and hair care products, to enhance their performance and user experience.

Cosmetics - INCI Functions

• Surfactant - Emulsifying agent. Emulsions are thermodynamically unstable and are used to soothe or soften the skin and emulsify, so they need a specific, stabilising ingredient. This ingredient forms a film, lowers the surface tension and makes two immiscible liquids miscible. A very important factor affecting the stability of the emulsion is the amount of the emulsifying agent. Emulsifiers have the property of reducing the oil/water or water/oil interfacial tension, improving the stability of the emulsion and also directly influencing the stability, sensory properties and surface tension of sunscreens by modulating the filmometric performance.

CAS   223706-47-6

Environmental and Safety Considerations

Polyglyceryl-3 cocoate is generally considered safe for use in cosmetics and pharmaceuticals when used according to recommended guidelines. It is biodegradable and derived from renewable sources, contributing to its favorable environmental profile. However, it is important to ensure that the production process adheres to sustainable practices to minimize ecological impact. Safety considerations include monitoring for potential allergic reactions or sensitivities in some individuals.