Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters are derived from the hydrolysis of jojoba oil esters. Jojoba oil, which is actually a liquid wax, is broken down into its component fatty acids and alcohols through a hydrolysis process. This hydrolyzed form retains the beneficial properties of jojoba oil but is more readily absorbed and utilized in cosmetic formulations. It is used primarily for its moisturizing and conditioning properties.
Chemical Composition and Structure:
Jojoba Oil: Contains long-chain fatty acids and esters of fatty acids and alcohols.
Hydrolysis Process: Breaking down jojoba oil esters into free fatty acids and alcohols using water, often in the presence of an acid or base catalyst.
Physical Properties:
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters are typically a clear or slightly yellow liquid with a light, non-greasy feel. They have excellent emollient properties and are known for their ability to mimic the skin's natural sebum, making them effective in moisturizing and conditioning products.
Production Process:
Extraction of Jojoba Oil:
Jojoba seeds are pressed to obtain jojoba oil.
Hydrolysis:
Jojoba oil is subjected to hydrolysis using water and a catalyst, such as an acid or base, to break down the esters into free fatty acids and alcohols.
Purification:
The hydrolyzed product is purified to remove any impurities and residual catalyst.
Formulation:
The purified hydrolyzed jojoba esters are incorporated into cosmetic formulations to provide moisturization and conditioning.
Applications:
Moisturizer: Provides deep hydration and improves skin elasticity.
Conditioner: Enhances the texture and smoothness of hair and skin.
Emollient: Mimics natural skin oils, helping to restore and maintain skin balance.
Environmental and Safety Considerations:
Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters are generally regarded as safe for use in cosmetic products. They should be used according to established guidelines to prevent potential allergic reactions or skin irritations. It is important to ensure that the esters are sustainably sourced and free from harmful chemicals.
INCI Functions:
Film-forming agent. It produces, upon application, a very thin continuous film with an optimal balance of cohesion, adhesion and stickiness on skin, hair or nails to counteract or limit damage from external phenomena such as chemicals, UV rays and pollution.
Hair conditioning agent. A significant number of ingredients with specific and targeted purposes may co-exist in hair shampoo formulations: cleansers, conditioners, thickeners, matting agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, preservatives, special additives. However, the indispensable ingredients are the cleansers and conditioners as they are necessary and sufficient for hair cleansing and manageability. The others act as commercial and non-essential auxiliaries such as: appearance, fragrance, colouring, etc. Hair conditioning agents have the task of increasing shine, manageability and volume, and reducing static electricity, especially after treatments such as colouring, ironing, waving, drying and brushing. They are, in practice, dispersants that may contain cationic surfactants, thickeners, emollients, polymers. The typology of hair conditioning agents includes: intensive conditioners, instant conditioners, thickening conditioners, drying conditioners. They can perform their task generally accompanied by other different ingredients.
Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.
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