PEG-12 is a polyethylene glycol with an average molecular weight corresponding to 12 ethylene glycol units. It is a water-soluble polymer used in cosmetics and personal care products to improve the texture and stability of formulations. PEG-12 is commonly employed as an emulsifier, solubilizer, and conditioning agent, contributing to the creation of uniform and well-blended products.

Chemical Composition and Structure

Components: Mainly composed of ethylene glycol (EG) with 12 repeating units.
Chemical Formula: The chemical formula is a linear chain of ethylene glycol units with an average molecular weight of approximately 12.
Molecular Weight: Approximately 600-700 Dalton (varies depending on polymerization degree).

Physical Properties

Appearance: Typically a clear or slightly opaque liquid.
Odor: Generally odorless or with a very mild scent.
Solubility: Fully soluble in water and some organic solvents.
pH: Typically neutral, but may vary depending on the formulation.
Stability: Stable under normal storage conditions; should be protected from excessive light and heat to maintain effectiveness.

Production Process

Polymerization: Polyethylene glycol is produced through the polymerization of ethylene glycol, controlled to achieve the desired molecular weight.
Purification: PEG-12 is purified to remove impurities and ensure a high-quality product.
Formulation: Incorporated into cosmetics and personal care products to enhance mixability and stability of formulations.

Applications

Cosmetics: Used in creams, lotions, and serums to enhance texture and absorption.
Personal Care: Incorporated into shampoos, conditioners, and cleansers to improve product stability and performance.
Medical: Occasionally used in pharmaceutical products for its solubilizing and stabilizing properties.
Food: Rarely used in food applications, primarily confined to cosmetics and personal care uses.

Environmental and Safety Considerations

PEG-12 is generally regarded as safe for topical use when applied according to established guidelines. It should be sourced and produced responsibly to minimize environmental impact. Users with sensitive skin should monitor for any adverse reactions and discontinue use if necessary. Proper handling and storage are essential to maintain the polymer’s effectiveness and stability.

Cosmetic Safety

PEG (Polyethylene glycol) polymerize condensed ethylene oxide and water and are referred to as polyethylene glycols, but they are actually complex chemical components, polymers bonded together. For example, plastic is polyethylene and has a hard consistency, while polyethylene aggregated with glycol forms a liquid. PEGylation is produced not only as heterification but also as transesterification, which is the transformation of an alcohol by an ester.
The number that appears after the abbreviation PEG represents the molecular weight, and the higher this number is, the less it penetrates the skin.
The term 'eth' refers to the ethoxylation reaction with ethylene oxide after which residues of ethylene oxide and 1,4-dioxane, chemical compounds considered carcinogenic, may remain. The degree of safety therefore depends on the degree of purity of the compound obtained. No manufacturer appears to provide this information on the label, at least as of the date of this review.
Kim MC, Park SY, Kwon SY, Kim YK, Kim YI, Seo YS, Cho SM, Shin EC, Mok JH, Lee YB. Application of Static Headspace GC-MS Method for Selective 1,4-Dioxane Detection in Food Additives. Foods. 2023 Sep 2;12(17):3299. doi: 10.3390/foods12173299.
Abstract. "Efficient detection methods must be developed for 1,4-dioxane due to its suspected status as a human carcinogen, which is highly mobile in food and environmental resources. In this regard, this experiment has been conducted to develop reliable and selective detection and measurement methods by using static headspace (SH) isolation, followed by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS). A new method was developed for determining the spiked 1,4-dioxane contents in a polyethylene glycol 600 (PEG 600). The optimal condition for SH-GC-MS was discussed. The representative ions of 1,4-dioxane and 1,4-dioxane-d8 in the SIM mode of MS are 88 and 96, respectively, and the peaks of the SIM mode were separated and confirmed. The linear range for the method covers 0.25 to 100 mg/L with a coefficient of determination (R2) ≥ 0.999. The method applicability was demonstrated by spike recovery across a variety of food additives (i.e., chlorine bitartrate, choline chloride, polysorbate 20 and 60, and PEG 1000). All spike recovery from the tested samples was in the range of 89.50-102.68% with a precision of 0.44-11.22%. These findings suggest a new analytical method for food safety inspection, and could be applicable for ensuring the safety of foods and environmental and public health on a broad scale."

INCI Functions:


Humectant. Hygroscopic compound used to minimise water loss in the skin and to prevent it from drying out by facilitating faster and greater absorption of water into the stratum corneum of the epidermis. The epidermis is the most superficial of the three layers that make up human skin (epidermis, dermis and hypodermis) and is the layer that maintains hydration in all three layers. In turn, the epidermis is composed of five layers: horny, the most superficial, granular, spinous, shiny, and basal. Humectants have the ability to retain the water they attract from the air in the stratum corneum and have the function of moisturising the skin. They are best used before emollients, which are oil-based.

Solvent. It is the substance for dissolving or dispersing surfactants, oils, dyes, flavourings, bactericidal preservatives in solution.In fact, it dissolves other components present in a cosmetic formulation. Solvents are generally liquid (aqueous and non-aqueous).
Synonyms:

CAS: 25322-68-3