Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Powder is a fine powder obtained from dried, ground leaves of Arctostaphylos uva-ursi (bearberry). Known for its astringent, antioxidant, and brightening properties, it is widely used in cosmetics and natural skincare treatments. The powder is a versatile form of the extract, suitable for DIY preparations, face masks, and powdered cosmetic products.

Chemical Composition and Structure

1. Arbutin:

   • A key compound that regulates melanin production, reducing hyperpigmentation and evening out skin tone.

2. Tannins:

   • Polyphenolic compounds with astringent properties that help tighten pores and reduce sebum production.

3. Flavonoids:

   • Antioxidant molecules such as quercetin and myricetin, which protect the skin from oxidative stress and promote cellular regeneration.

4. Ursolic Acid:

   • A triterpenoid with anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial actions that support skin elasticity and regeneration.

Physicochemical Properties

• Appearance: Fine powder with a greenish-olive or light brown color.
• Odor: Herbal, slightly earthy.
• Solubility: Insoluble in water; can be used as a suspension or mixed into oil-based preparations.
• Stability: Stable when stored in a cool, dry place away from direct light and moisture.

Production Process

1. Harvesting: Leaves are collected from mature Arctostaphylos uva-ursi plants grown in temperate regions.
2. Drying: Fresh leaves are dried naturally or using controlled dryers to preserve bioactive compounds.
3. Grinding: Dried leaves are finely ground using advanced milling techniques to achieve a uniform particle size.

Applications

Medical

• Traditionally used for natural treatments of urinary tract infections.
• Applied topically to reduce inflammation and promote healing of skin lesions.

Cosmetics

1. Skincare:

   • Mixed into face masks to purify, brighten, and tone the skin.
   • Incorporated into scrubs and exfoliants to improve skin texture and support cellular turnover.

2. Anti-aging:

   • Integrated into powdered cosmetics to combat free radicals and improve skin elasticity.

3. Purifying:

   • Suitable for clay-based masks for oily or acne-prone skin, thanks to its astringent properties.

CAS   84776-10-3    EC number   283-934-3

Industrial

• Used in natural and organic formulations, in powdered skincare products, or as an active ingredient in eco-friendly cosmetics.

Environmental and Safety Considerations

• Sustainability:

  • Sourced from responsibly cultivated plants to preserve the environment and reduce ecological impact.

• Biodegradability:

  • Fully biodegradable and compatible with natural formulations.

• Safety Profile:

  • Safe for topical use; however, for sensitive or reactive skin, a preliminary test is recommended.

Conclusion

Arctostaphylos Uva-Ursi Leaf Powder is a natural, versatile, and potent form of bearberry, ideal for DIY skincare treatments and advanced cosmetic formulations. Its brightening, antioxidant, and astringent properties make it a key ingredient for skincare products and natural beauty routines.

Key Properties

• Active Compounds: Arbutin, tannins, flavonoids, ursolic acid.
• INCI Functions: Brightening, Astringent, Antioxidant, Exfoliant.
• Advantages: Evens skin tone, purifies and improves skin texture, supports anti-aging treatments.

References__________________________________________________________________________

Dell'Annunziata F, Cometa S, Della Marca R, Busto F, Folliero V, Franci G, Galdiero M, De Giglio E, De Filippis A. In Vitro Antibacterial and Anti-Inflammatory Activity of Arctostaphylos uva-ursi Leaf Extract against Cutibacterium acnes. Pharmaceutics. 2022 Sep 15;14(9):1952. doi: 10.3390/pharmaceutics14091952.

Abstract. Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes) is the main causative agent of acne vulgaris. The study aims to evaluate the antimicrobial activity of a natural product, Arctostaphylos uva-ursi leaf extract, against C. acnes. Preliminary chemical-physical characterization of the extract was carried out by means of FT-IR, TGA and XPS analyses. Skin permeation kinetics of the extract conveyed by a toning lotion was studied in vitro by Franz diffusion cell, monitoring the permeated arbutin (as the target component of the extract) and the total phenols by HPLC and UV-visible spectrophotometry, respectively. Antimicrobial activity and time-killing assays were performed to evaluate the effects of Arctostaphylos uva-ursi leaf extract against planktonic C. acnes. The influence of different Arctostaphylos uva-ursi leaf extract concentrations on the biofilm biomass inhibition and degradation was evaluated by the crystal violet (CV) method. The 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyl tetrazolium bromide (MTT) test was used to determine the viability of immortalized human keratinocytes (HaCaT) after exposure to Arctostaphylos uva-ursi leaf extract for 24 and 48 h. Levels of interleukin (IL)-1β, IL-6, IL-8 and tumour necrosis factor (TNF)-α were quantified after HaCaT cells cotreatment with Arctostaphylos uva-ursi leaf extract and heat-killed C. acnes. The minimum inhibitory concentration (MIC) which exerted a bacteriostatic action on 90% of planktonic C. acnes (MIC90) was 0.6 mg/mL. Furthermore, MIC and sub-MIC concentrations influenced the biofilm formation phases, recording a percentage of inhibition that exceeded 50 and 40% at 0.6 and 0.3 mg/mL. Arctostaphylos uva-ursi leaf extract disrupted biofilm biomass of 57 and 45% at the same concentrations mentioned above. Active Arctostaphylos uva-ursi leaf extract doses did not affect the viability of HaCaT cells. On the other hand, at 1.25 and 0.6 mg/mL, complete inhibition of the secretion of pro-inflammatory cytokines was recorded. Taken together, these results indicate that Arctostaphylos uva-ursi leaf extract could represent a natural product to counter the virulence of C. acnes, representing a new alternative therapeutic option for the treatment of acne vulgaris.

Sugier P, Sęczyk Ł, Sugier D, Krawczyk R, Wójcik M, Czarnecka J, Okoń S, Plak A. Chemical Characteristics and Antioxidant Activity of Arctostaphylos uva-ursi L. Spreng. at the Southern Border of the Geographical Range of the Species in Europe. Molecules. 2021 Dec 20;26(24):7692. doi: 10.3390/molecules26247692.

Abstract. The bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi L. Spreng.) is a source of herbal material-bearberry leaf (Uvae ursi folium), which is highly valued and sought by pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. For many years, leaves of this plant have been used in traditional medicine as a diuretic, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory agent for various diseases of the urogenital tract. The bearberry has also been proposed as a natural antioxidant additive due to the high contents of phenolic compounds in its leaves. The study was focused on characterization of the basic phytochemical composition and antioxidant activity of extracts derived from bearberry leaves collected from plants located at the southern border of the geographical range of the species in Europe. The investigated herbal material is characterized by a different chemical profile compared to the chemical profiles of bearberry found in other parts of the continent. Bearberry extracts from plants growing in two different habitat types-heathlands and pine forests showed a wide range of variation, especially in the concentration of hyperoside, corilagin, and methylartutin and the total flavonoid contents. In addition to arbutin, bearberry can be a valuable source of phenolic compounds, which are mainly responsible for the antioxidant properties of extracts. The high content of phenols and high values of antioxidant parameters indicate a high potential of bearberry leaves to be used as a powerful natural source of antioxidants in herbal preparations. Therefore, the A. uva-ursi populations can be a source of plant material for pharmaceutical, cosmetic, and food industries.

Asensio E, Vitales D, Pérez I, Peralba L, Viruel J, Montaner C, Vallès J, Garnatje T, Sales E. Phenolic Compounds Content and Genetic Diversity at Population Level across the Natural Distribution Range of Bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi, Ericaceae) in the Iberian Peninsula. Plants (Basel). 2020 Sep 22;9(9):1250. doi: 10.3390/plants9091250.

Abstract. Bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi) is a medicinal plant traditionally employed for the treatment of urinary tract infections due to high contents of arbutin (hydroquinone β-D-glucoside), which is now mainly used as a natural skin-whitening agent in cosmetics. Bearberry has also been proposed as a natural antioxidant additive due to the high contents of phenolic compounds in leaves. We studied the variation on phenolic compounds in 42 wild populations of bearberry, aiming to elucidate if intrinsic biological, climatic, and/or geographic factors affect phenolic contents across its natural distribution in the Iberian Peninsula. Bearberry leaves were collected during autumn over a three-year period (2014-2016) in populations across a latitude and altitude gradient. Methanolic extracts showed a wide range of variation in total phenols content, and different phenolic profiles regarding arbutin (levels of this major constituent varied from 87 to 232 mg/g dr wt), but also catechin and myricetin contents, which were affected by geographic and climatic factors. Moderate levels of variation on genome size-assessed by flow cytometry-and on two plastid DNA regions were also detected among populations. Genetic and cytogenetic differentiation of populations was weakly but significantly associated to phytochemical diversity. Elite bearberry genotypes with higher antioxidant capacity were subsequently identified.

Kravchenko G, Krasilnikova O, Raal A, Mazen M, Chaika N, Kireyev I, Grytsyk A, Koshovyi O. Arctostaphylos uva-ursi L. leaves extract and its modified cysteine preparation for the management of insulin resistance: chemical analysis and bioactivity. Nat Prod Bioprospect. 2022 Aug 12;12(1):30. doi: 10.1007/s13659-022-00352-1. PMID: 35953755; PMCID: PMC9372252.