Copper PCA is a complex of copper and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), which is a naturally occurring compound found in the skin. Copper PCA is often used in cosmetics and skincare products for its beneficial effects on the skin, including its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and sebum-regulating properties.
Chemical Composition and Structure
Copper PCA is formed by binding copper ions (Cu²⁺) to pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, a derivative of the amino acid proline. The structure consists of:
Copper (Cu²⁺): A metal ion known for its role in supporting collagen production and acting as an antioxidant.
Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA): A naturally occurring compound in the skin that helps maintain hydration and acts as a skin-conditioning agent.
Physical Properties
Appearance: Copper PCA typically appears as a blue to greenish powder or solution, depending on the concentration.
Solubility: It is soluble in water, making it easy to incorporate into aqueous formulations.
Odor: Copper PCA usually has a neutral or slightly metallic odor.
Stability: Copper PCA is stable in formulations, but like most copper compounds, it can degrade when exposed to light or high temperatures for prolonged periods.
Benefits and Functions
Antioxidant: Copper PCA is known for its antioxidant properties, which help protect the skin from oxidative stress caused by free radicals. This makes it beneficial in anti-aging skincare products.
Anti-inflammatory: It has mild anti-inflammatory effects, helping to soothe irritated skin and reduce redness.
Sebum regulation: Copper PCA helps to regulate sebum production, making it beneficial for oily and acne-prone skin. It can reduce excess oil without causing dryness.
Collagen production support: Copper ions are essential for collagen and elastin synthesis, which are crucial for maintaining skin elasticity and firmness.
Skin conditioning: It helps to improve the overall texture of the skin by maintaining hydration and supporting the skin’s natural barrier function.
Applications
Cosmetics and Personal Care
Anti-aging products: Copper PCA is often included in anti-aging formulations for its antioxidant and collagen-supporting properties.
Acne treatment: Due to its ability to regulate sebum production, Copper PCA is frequently found in products targeting acne and oily skin.
Moisturizers and serums: It is used in moisturizing products to help maintain skin hydration and support the skin barrier.
Soothing products: Copper PCA's anti-inflammatory properties make it beneficial in products designed to calm and soothe irritated or inflamed skin.
INCI Functions
Humectant. Hygroscopic compound used to minimise water loss in the skin and to prevent it from drying out by facilitating faster and greater absorption of water into the stratum corneum of the epidermis. The epidermis is the most superficial of the three layers that make up human skin (epidermis, dermis and hypodermis) and is the layer that maintains hydration in all three layers. In turn, the epidermis is composed of five layers: horny, the most superficial, granular, spinous, shiny, and basal. Humectants have the ability to retain the water they attract from the air in the stratum corneum and have the function of moisturising the skin. They are best used before emollients, which are oil-based.
Skin conditioning agent. It is the mainstay of topical skin treatment as it has the function of restoring, increasing or improving skin tolerance to external factors, including melanocyte tolerance. The most important function of the conditioning agent is to prevent skin dehydration, but the subject is rather complex and involves emollients and humectants that can be added in the formulation.
Hair Care
Hair growth products: Copper PCA is sometimes used in hair care products for its ability to promote scalp health and potentially stimulate hair growth.
Shampoos for oily hair: Due to its sebum-regulating effects, it is used in shampoos formulated for oily or acne-prone scalps.
Environmental and Safety Considerations
Biodegradability: Copper PCA is generally biodegradable, with minimal environmental impact when disposed of properly.
Safety: Copper PCA is considered safe for use in cosmetic formulations at appropriate concentrations. However, high concentrations of copper compounds can cause skin irritation or discoloration in rare cases. It should be used within regulated limits.
Sustainability: Copper PCA is derived from naturally occurring elements and is generally considered a sustainable ingredient in cosmetics.
Molecular Formula C10H12CuN2O6
Molecular Weight 319.76 g/mol
CAS 15454-74-7
UNII 497G7G1SL1
EC Number 239-471-4
Synonyms:
Copper pidolate
References__________________________________________________________________________
Bährle-Rapp, M., & Bährle-Rapp, M. (2007). Copper PCA. Springer Lexikon Kosmetik und Körperpflege, 128-128.
Copper pidolate 
